Discover Tehran, the Capital City of Iran

Tehran, the capital of Iran, may not be somewhere that you might have considered visiting. And who would blame you? With its frenzied streets, smog and concrete many will tell you that you should give it a miss and spend time in Esfahan or Persepolis.

But avoid Tehran and you will miss out on a city that is Iran's unattractive beating heart, vibrant, frenzied, loud and larger than life.

It is in Tehran that change happens first whether socially or politically. Tehran is a city of contrasts that range from rich and poor, religious and secular, traditional and modern.

This capital of Iran offers a decent choice of hotels and some incredible restaurants. And added to that is the great fact that the Tehranis are amazingly welcoming.

When visiting Tehran be aware that the city is so congested and vast that getting lost is inevitable. But on a positive note most street signs are in English.

The top shopping street in Tehran is Valiasr Avenue and this runs from Rah-Ahan Square to the train station in southern Tehran to Tajrish Square in the foothills of the Alborze Mountains. All in all a distance of over 20km and a great street to find should you find yourself lost.

For a detailed map of Tehran go to the Gita Shenasi (www.gitashenasi.com), 15 Ostad Shahriver St, Razi St, Valiasr Crossroads, Enqelab-e Eslami Ave. They are open 8am-6pm Sat-Wed & 8am-1pm Thurs. Just press the buzzer and you will be given entry.

Before embarking on a tour of Tehran you may wish to get some advice or even organize a personalized tour from a private tour operator such as:

Houman Najaf - tel - 0912 202 3017, email - houman.najafi@gmail.com

Leily lankarani - tel - 0912 150 8519, email llankarani@yahoo.co.uk

A taster of some sights to see in Tehran

Tehran bazaar (main entrance, 15 Khordad Ave. Open 7am-5pm Sat-Wed & 7am -noon Thurs)

Tehran Bazaar is made up of a maze of bustling alleys. Although fascinating this can be a daunting place to explore. For thousands of years traders have been hawking their wares here. There are many entrances to the Bazaar but it is well worth using the main entrance.

It is here that you will find copper, gold, spices, paper, carpets, bookbinders, flag sellers, haberdashers, broadcloth sellers, shoemakers and tailors.

It is advisable to visit the Tehran Bazaar during the morning whilst business is brisk but not frantic.

Golestan Palace (www.golestanpalace.ir, Ark Square. Open 9am-3.30pm Fri, Sat & Mon -Wed)

The complex where the Golestan Palace, once the heart of Tehran, is located is made up of several magnificent buildings set around a beautifully manicured garden.

Although admission is inexpensive you do need to purchase a ticket for each building and if you ask you may also get your own private guide.

The National Museum of Iran (www.nationalmuseumofiran.ir , Si Tir Street. Open 9am -5pm Tue-Sun)

This museum is chock- a- block with Iran's rich history and should not be missed. The building itself was designed by the French architect Andre Godard and is certainly one of the more attractive of Tehran's modern buildings.

The wonderful collections to be found here include pottery, ceramics, carvings and stone figures. But the collections are not displayed as well as they could be. Some of the labeling is in English and there is an English speaking guide available.

The Museum of the Islamic Period (Si Tir Street. Open9am-5pm Tue-Sun)

This is in the same complex as the National Museum of Iran and is a modern building that contains two floors filled with a selection of Islamic art including textiles, miniatures, stone-carving, carpets and calligraphy.

Keep an eye out for the gorgeous Paradise Door, a 14^th century luster-painted mihrab.

If you plan to visit both the above museums allow yourself two to three hours.

The National Jewels Museum (Ferdosi St. Open 2pm-4.30pm Sat-Tue. Children under 12 are not permitted)

This huge vault is owned by the Central bank is guarded by a couple of well-armed guards. It is possibly the larges tourist draw in Tehran.

Come and be amazed at these magnificent jewels. Much of the collection goes back to Safavid times. Be sure not to miss the Darya-ye Nur, 182 carats of pink diamond thought to be the largest uncut diamond in the world

It goes without saying that all cameras and bags must be left at reception and above all touch nothing as you will off ear piercing alarms.

Accommodation

Accommodation in Tehran tends to follow the city's social breakdown meaning that budget accommodation can be found in the poorer south whilst as you travel further north accommodation gets more expensive.

In the business district between Enqekab Avenue and Keshavarz Blvd you will find several 3-star standard business hotels.

Probably the most interesting hotels in Tehran are the pre-Revolution era five star hotels with their disco-era décor, and ornamental outdoor swimming pools.

Top end hotels are boutique affairs and can be found on Valiasr Avenue. Not quite the Ritz but good value.

Eating

Tehran is certainly not one of the world's culinary capitals but the food found here draws on a broad selection of cultural influences and will suit every budget.

A lot of restaurants in Tehran are underground so be on the look out for anonymous looking stairwells.

You may wish to try

Istanbul-No Restaurant - off Omhuri-ye Eslami Ave and open between 11am and 5pm. This restaurant serves an amazing range of lunch time dishes and is especially good for those on a budget.

The Gilac - off Kordestan Hwy. Open noon-4pm & 7pm-midnight Sun- Fri. This restaurant is reminiscent of Europe than Iran but the food is definitely Caspian and a favorite with vegetarians.

The Armenian Club - 68 Khark St, cnr France Ave. open 8pm- midnight daily 7 noon-3pm Fri. This restaurant is almost a one off as it is a Christian establishment where women can legally eat or just hang out without hejab and for those that wish you can get your hands on something stronger than lemonade. You can even bring your own to drink with your meal.

Note - by order of the government Muslims cannot enter this establishment.

Getting There

Tehran is Iran's main international hub. There are daily flights between Tehran and every provincial capital in Iran.

Most international services use the Imam Khomeini International Airport (www.ikia.ir), which is located 35km south of Tehran.

The customs and immigration procedures at IKIA are slow but usually free of hassle. In the airport there are two banks, which you may need to use to change money for your taxi into Tehran as there is no public transport.

Let Tehran open up to you and you will be rewarded.

Source; Iran - The Lonely Planet

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