DIY Guide to Installing Your Own Granite Tile Countertops

If you have followed along with my articles, then you are at the point of actually installing your granite tile countertops. If you missed any of my other articles in the step by step process of selecting and installing granite tile countertops, then please refer to my previous articles for guidance with this project.

Finally we are ready for installation. You are almost at the point when you will be able to realize the end result that all of your time and effort in planning has produced. This is also when the job becomes physically demanding. This is a good time to have a helper if possible. It will certainly make the job easier.

During the last article, I discussed how to cut both the plywood and cement backer board to length and width. The plywood is easily cut with a table saw and a helper, or with a circular saw. The backer board is easily cut by scoring it numerous times with a utility knife and then snapping it at the score line.

The next cut made into the plywood section will be more difficult. You will have to determine the location of the sink cutout. If you only have one sink in your kitchen like most people, this difficult task will only have to be done once.

If you are installing a new sink which is assumed since you are installing a new countertop, the sink will come with a template for installation. Locate this template on the piece of plywood exactly where you want the sink located. Be sure that you have centered it in the cabinet opening both side to side and front to back. The easiest way to assure proper location is to dry fit the piece of plywood on top of your cabinets in the final location that it will be positioned in. This will require that you remove the existing countertop material if you have not already done so.

Once you have correctly positioned the piece of plywood, transfer marks to it that will allow you to position the sink cutout correctly. Then apply the template and trace it or follow the directions written on it. Now you should have a line that marks the cutout for the sink. There are two ways to make this cutout correctly. You can use either a router or a drill bit and jigsaw to make an accurate cutout. Either method can be easily done freehand, just take your time to assure accuracy. If using a router, slowly plunge in and make the cut removing only some material in each pass, do not attempt to make a ¾ inch deep plunge in only one pass. If using a jigsaw, drill out all four corners with a drill bit that is larger than the jigsaw blade and connect the holes with the jigsaw.

Now that you have completed the work on the piece of plywood, it can be attached to the base cabinets. You will need construction adhesive and a tape measure to install the plywood. Begin by applying generous gobs of construction adhesive on the top edges of the base cabinets. Apply wherever it looks like the base cabinets will make contact with the underside of the plywood. Once you have applied all of the construction adhesive needed, you can lay the piece of plywood on top. Use the tape measure to measure the front and side overhang of the plywood in relation to the base cabinets. Try to keep this measurement as uniform as possible to keep an even overhang on the entire countertop. Once you are satisfied with the placement, let the plywood sit for 24 hours without use to allow time for the adhesive to cure.

One the following day, you will be able to install the backer board. Since you have already cut the backer board to size, you will only have a few steps left to install each section. First, you will need to pre-drill the backer board to allow the screws used later to sink below the surface of the board. Choose a drill bit that is slightly larger in diamater than the head of the screw that you are using. This will allow the screw to sit flush with the surface of the backer board. The backer board has hash marks on it for proper screw locations. Pre-drill at all of these locations. Now you are ready to mix the thin set or mortar.

Mix the thin set according to the instructions listed on your package. Apply the thin set to the plywood with your ¼ inch, square notched trowel. Once you have evenly applied the thin set, position the backer board on top of the plywood and thin set and firmly set it in place. Begin installing it by fastening it with screws in the pre-drilled locations. After you have installed all of the screws, allow the thin set to dry for several hours. Do not forget to piece in any small sections need to fill in areas around the sink cutout. When completed, you should only be able to see the edges of the plywood. The backer board should cover the entire surface area of the plywood.

Now you will need to tape and mortar the seams of the backer board. Begin by applying self stick fiberglass tape over all of the seams between two pieces of backer board. Cut to length with a razor blade. Then apply mortar with a putty knife on top of the tape covering both it and the seams in the process. Smooth out the mortar and avoid lines or raised edges. Allow to dry overnight.

Now you are ready for the most exciting part of the job. Installing the granite tile. Installing the tile is relatively straightforward and if you have ever laid tile before, the process will be very similar. I will mention a few differences from traditional tile work. Granite tiles are meant to be butted together. There will not be a noticeable gap between two tiles. The slight bevel on the edge of the granite tile will create your grout line. The surface of the tile should be as even as possible. The mirror-like surface of granite will highlight any irregularities in laying tile so be sure to lay them flat and line up all of the edges of the tiles. You do not want large bumps on the surface of your finished countertop.

When you lay out the thin set, only spread enough that you can work in 20 minutes or less. Thin set starts to set up quickly and therefore you must work quickly. Being quick and precise is not necessarily easy. Spread the thin set with your ¼ inch square notched trowel. Lay your tiles starting at one edge and working to the other edge. Be sure to line up outside tiles with the edge of your plywood and backer board. Keep tiles running straight along the front edge of the countertop. By lining up the tile with the edge of the plywood and backer board, you will have straight edge to apply your molding to later on. As you lay the tiles, you can check to see if their heights line up by running a nickel across the top surface of the tile. If the tiles line up well, the nickel should easily pass over the space between each tile. If the tiles do not line up well, the nickel will catch the edge of one tile and stop moving. Adjust the tile heights according by lightly tapping them with your hand or a rubber mallet. You will not achieve perfection, but with patience, you will get close.

If throughout this process you realize that one tile is thicker than the other and will not tap down, remove it and replace it with a thinner tile. Occasionally you may run into tiles variation, simply remove the suspect tiles and mark them so that you do not mistakenly reuse it again.

Once you have laid all of your whole tiles and leveled them to the best of your ability, you will have to cut tiles to fit around the sink opening. Most sinks, due to their width will require 2 or 3 tiles. Most will be 2 tiles with a third cut tile. Proceed with installing the cut tiles in the same manner as the whole tiles. Once tiles installation is complete, allow the thin set 24 hours of drying time.

After the thin set has dried, you will move on to grouting. To grout, begin by mixing the grout according to the instructions on the package of grout that you purchased. To spread the grout you will need a putty knife and a grout float. Begin by using the putty knife to apply grout directly to the joints. Be generous with the grout. After you have covered several joints, use the grout float to force the grout into the joints. Hold the float at a 45 degree angle to the countertop and follow a diagonal line across the joints. This method forces grout into the joints without pulling any out of the joints. Spread the grout evenly and fill in all joints on the countertop.

Next you will need to remove excess grout. Removing excess grout is done with a grout sponge. Wet the sponge and wipe in a circular manner on the tile to remove grout. You will need to rinse the sponge several times throughout the process. Repeat this process until only a thin film of grout is left on the surface of the tile. Now you can allow the grout to dry to a haze.

Once the grout has dried to a haze, take dry paper towel and buff off the additional grout. Take care not to touch the wet grout lines at this point. After buffing, you will need to allow drying time for the grout. I recommend about 2 hours. After 2 hours, the grout will be slightly set and will allow for the removal of any unwanted grout from the surface of the tile. Use your grout sponge again and gently remove any excess grout, allow it to haze over and buff to remove any residue. Your project is nearly complete. Now all that is left is the installation of the wood edge molding. Please allow 24 hours of dry time at this point before moving on with your project.

Before installing the molding you will need to sand it, stain it, and apply any protective finish that you wish. This should all be done before installation of the molding. Once the moldings are ready for install, they will have to be cut to length. Corners should be cut at 45 degrees on a miter box or with a miter saw. Test fit the molding before applying the adhesive. If you are happy with the fit, you can begin applying large beads of the adhesive along the edges of the plywood, backer board, and granite tile. Keep the adhesive off of the face of the tile as it is difficult to remove. Once you have applied the adhesive needed for one section of molding, you can put that molding into place. If possible, clamp the molding on, if not, you will have to apply pressure and use painters tape to keep the molding in place as the adhesive sets. The adhesive will take 24 hours to fully set, but should be partially set within an hour or two. Now you can move on to you next molding. Make sure that all corners line up and that the height of the molding matches the height of the face of the tile. Install all moldings and allow 24 hours to cure.

Now we will move on the caulking and installing the sink. The area between the wood molding and the granite tile must be caulked. It is best to try to match the caulk to the grout color. Apply a thin bead of caulk along the gap between the tile and the wood molding.

To install a top mount sink you will need silicone and caulk. Place a thick bead of silicone on the countertop where the sink will sit and place a similar bead on the underside of the sink. Install the sink into the cutout and position it accurately. Allow 24 hours of dry time. Now you will be able to caulk around the edge of the sink. Use the same caulk that was used along the molding. Install a generous bead around the outer edge of the sink.

You have now completed the installation of one countertop. All of the other countertops will be installed in an identical manner. It may seem daunting at first, but once the project gets underway, you will understand that this project is no more difficult than most other DIY projects. The end result is stunning and you have saved yourself thousands of dollars. We couldn't be more satisfied with our granite tile countertops. Granite for a fraction of the price.

Please read all of my articles in the granite tile countertop series, including follow up articles on maintenance and care of your granite tile countertops. If you have any questions regarding any steps in the process, feel free to comment and I will try to answer your questions.