Supplies:
-1-2 boxes of connectable wire storage cubes
-1 large pack of zip-ties, non-reversible
-1 small pack of zip-ties, reversible (for the lock on the door, you'll only need one to start, but you'll want extras)
-A hard, smooth surface to put the cage on (and some extra, to line the optional shelves with)
-A pair of scissors
Building the Cage
1) Fasten the wire squares together into your desired cage's size and shape using sturdy zip-ties. The bigger the better, as long as you've got space. Be sure to leave at least one square in front unattached on one side, as a door hinge - you don't want to have to lift the whole thing off the ground any time Mr. Cadbury wants out, after all.
2) Add a 'shelf' or 'ledge' inside (if desired) using some additional squares, and fasten it securely to the walls with more zip-ties. Don't panic if it doesn't seem stable enough to support your rabbit's full weight just yet; step 4 will deal with that. This will be your rabbit's 'second floor,' and depending on the dimensions of your cage, you may feel like adding even more to your bunny's new floor-plan - if so, great! It's extremely easy to do, and the more nooks and crannies your rabbit has to hop around between, the happier he'll be.
3) Place the whole structure on top of an appropriate hard surface - I find that cutting down a large sheet of plywood works well, providing a cool and easy-to-clean surface for your bunny to lay and play on. You can also glue the leftover strips of plywood around the edges for a four to five inch lip to keep all the messy debris of loose fur and stray pellets where it belongs - inside the cage. A simple linoleum mudroom or laundry room floor will also work, if you have one with room to spare.
4) Slide a wooden dowel through the walls underneath the middle and edges of any additional shelves (and ceiling, if necessary) to provide additional support. Next, cover all your shelves with a smooth surface to keep the rabbit's feet off the wire - you can use cardboard, more plywood, spare linoleum, or any similar material, as long as it is either heavy enough to stay in place on its own or can be secured to the shelf some other way.
5) Use another reversible zip-tie as a 'lock' for the door, then finish things up by clipping off the ends of all the other zip-ties around the cage - try to leave as little excess plastic for the rabbit to chew and as few sharp edges as possible.
Published by Nolan Foster
Nolan Foster loves to learn everything about anything, and is always looking for new subjects to write about. Currently a freelancer for AC and editor of a collaborative writing blog, he lives in the Philly... View profile
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12 Comments
Post a CommentGood advice. Wish i still had some buns! Karen - they are ferocious little beasts. My vet reassured me that rabbits can instantly dominate cats since they have a much more complex social structure. So true! Had my cat cornered and pretending he didn't exist in the first encounter.
Nice job! Hugz CJ
Bunnies don't need the Ritz... great idea!
Nice article Nolan
This is great. It will come in handy for easter when the kids all get their rabbits!
Easy to understand, thanks!
I bet rabbits love this house!
I can imagine a lot of children would love to get involved in this type of project and feel proud to have helped build their rabbit's home.
Thanks for the article
Awesome! Makes me wish I had a rabbit now so I can make one. lol I think my kitties would scare one to death so I'll just keep wishing. :-D Great article!