DIY Salon Quality Manicure at Home

Acrylic fumes. Nail dust. Shredded cuticles. Questionable sanitary practices. Last year's Entertainment Weekly.

We've all been there, haven't we? The price of beauty is high, but we soldier on in pursuit of that perfect manicure, inhaling the fumes and pretending that blasted cuticle nipper doesn't hurt. I endured this bimonthly ritual for years until recently, when I discovered that I could do my own manis and pedis. I'm a die hard DIYer, and I'm cheap, so I was very pleased to discover that with a small initial investment and a little patience, I could have a perfect manicure at home. Now you can, too.

Step 1: Tools of the trade

The first thing you need is a good nail file. This is important because a good nail length and shape will make your nails look professionally done. Any type of file will do, but glass files, while pricier than emery, do the least damage to the nail fibers. You can find glass and emery files at your local Sally beauty supply. (prices range from $1 to $20)

Next, you need a liquid cuticle remover. I use Sally Hansen Instant Cuticle Remover. You can use cuticle nippers, but frankly, they are right between a speculum and tweezers on the list of lady devices that hurt. Plus, they can make your cuticles more ragged in the long run. You can find Sally Hansen cuticle remover at your local drugstore. ($4.29)

You'll also need nail polish remover ($1.99), cotton balls ($.99), and hand cream ($2.99), all of which can be found at any drugstore.

Any nail tech worth her salt will tell you that a good base coat and topcoat make all the difference. Personally, I like Seche Base Ridge filling base coat ($7) and Seche Vite Fast-drying Topcoat ($10). The base coat does two things; it helps adhere the polish to your nails, and it protects your nails from that nasty yellow staining that can occur when you wear darker colors. The quick-drying topcoat does exactly what it says. Nails will be dry to the touch in less than ten minutes, and your nails will be super shiny. You can find these two items at your local drugstore or Sally Beauty.

Step 2: Choosing your polish

I believe you should wear the colors you love, regardless of brand, but I would be remiss if I didn't tell you that some brands really are better than others. Some of the best quality brands are OPI, China Glaze, Essie, Misa, and Creative Nail Design. You can find most of these polishes are your nearest Ulta or Trade Secret. I prefer to purchase mine online because they sell for 50% of retail. My favorite e-tailers are http://www.head2toebeauty.com and http://www.8ty8beauty.com.

There are some good quality drugstore polishes that have great colors and good wear. Sally Hansen, Orly, Revlon, Maybelline, and Milani are all great polishes for the money.

Every woman should have a few core colors...a classic red, a vamp, a near black, a flirty pink, and a nude. Anything after that is fair game, but I do have one suggestion...have fun with it. If you need to know what a color looks like on the nail before you buy it, check out http://nailgal.com. This is an awesome site with hundreds of user uploaded photos.

Step 3: Prepping your nails

Start by filing your nails. It doesn't matter if you have still have old polish on your nails. That can actually help you during the shaping process. Never, ever saw your nails. File in one direction, holding the file at a slight angle. Make sure all nails are roughly the same length. File your nails into a shape you like...square, oval, squoval, or round. When you are done, file once down the edge of your nail to seal it.

Next, remove any old nail polish with a remover-soaked cotton ball. Try not to rub the cotton ball up and down on the nail, because that causes polish to seep under the cuticle. Place the cotton ball on your nail, hold it for a few seconds, then wipe away from the cuticle.

Then, apply the cuticle remover according to instructions. Once this is washed off, apply hand cream, concentrating on the cuticle area. This helps prevent dry cuticles and hangnails. If you really want to be fancy, apply a cuticle oil or butter.

Finally, clean the nail surface with a remover soaked cotton-ball. This will remove all traces of oil, which can prevent your polish from adhering. You can also use a vinegar-soaked cotton ball for this.

Step 4: Polishing your nails

Once the nail surface is clean and dry, apply one coat of base coat. By the time you paint all ten nails and screw the cap back on, it should be dry.

Roll your nail polish back and forth in your palm. You don't want to shake it because that can cause tiny bubbles in the polish, which will ruin your manicure. After you have rolled the polish, let it settle for a minute.

Make sure you are seated in a ventilated and well-lit area. If necessary, prop the arm of your painting hand on a table or other surface to keep your hand steady. A steady hand is essential for a professional looking manicure.

When you are ready, dip the brush in the polish, wipe one side of the brush on the neck of the bottle, and start painting. Always start in the middle of the nail. Place the brush close the the cuticle, but not directly on it. You want to leave a small gap between the edge of the polish and the cuticle. Brush the polish to the edge of the nail. If you have enough polish on the brush, continue painting. If not, dip and wipe again.

This time, start close to your original starting point, but brush outward toward the side of the nail. Again, you are leaving a small gap between the nail and the cuticle. Do this again on the other side. You may need to do a few passes over the same spots, but don't worry about making the first coat even. The second coat will even things out.

When you are done with one hand, do the next. By the time you are done with the second hand, the polish on the first hand should be dry enough to start the second coat.

This time, concentrate on evening out the sparse areas. You want to do as few strokes with the brush as possible. When the first hand is done, proceed to the second hand. If you find you need to do a third coat (some polishes are streakier or more sheer than others), do so. Don't worry about drying time or thickness. Your topcoat will take care of that.

Step 5: Applying Topcoat

Once you are finished painting your nails with polish, you are ready to apply base coat. With topcoats like Seche Vite, you don't have to worry about letting the polish dry; they actually work better when applied to wet polish.

Apply your topcoat just like the polish. You can actually glop it on there if you want, because Seche Vite self-levels. This is a great feature.

When you are done with your topcoat, allow your nails about 5 minutes to dry to the touch, and 20 minutes to dry completely.

Step 6: Cleanup (optional)

If you got polish on your cuticles or surrounding skin, you will need to clean this up. My method of cleaning is to wait until the nails are completely dry, wash my hands in warm soapy water for two to three minutes, then use my fingernail to scrub the polish off of the skin. This is easy because nail polish is unable to adhere to skin the way it does to nails. I also use my fingernails to scrub off any polish that is in the gap between the cuticle and the nail polish.

Once I finish this, I dry my hands and apply hand creme (concentrating on the cuticles). There are other methods of cleaning, such as using a polish remover-soaked q-tip or an orange stick to remove errant polish.

Now you have learned how to do your own salon quality manicure. The great thing about this is that you can change your polish and repair your own chips whenever you want to. Another great benefit is that you get to keep that manicure money in your pocket. With practice, your skills will get better and you will be able to do your manicures in less time.

In subsequent series, I will discuss pedicures, nail art, and the best ways to strengthen and grow your nails.