Dracula Arrives: A Visit to Whitby, England

sam clemens
During a recent visit to London, England, I discovered that Dracula's first voyage towards the western world took him to a small English town called Whitby. It is a small fishing village on the edge of the North York Moors at the mouth of the river Esk. A catholic abbey built nearby solidified the town into the history books when it was chosen as the location for the Synod Council of the Celtic and Roman Catholic Churches to decide on a date to celebrate Easter.

It was however, the majestic landscape made up of towering sheer cliffs overlooking the harbour and the hulking stone remains of the Abbey that inspired the arrival of the premiere lord of darkness, Count Dracula. Actually, it was a visit by the Count's creator, Bram Stoker in 1890 that inspired the legend as we know it today. He was working on a novel at the time motivated by stories that he had heard about creatures and ghouls that go bump in the night. In particular, he was fascinated by mythological accounts of zombie-like creatures combing the eastern European countryside to feed upon human flesh.

During his stay in Whitby, Stoker was fascinated by a number of creatures including pigeons, rats and other creepy things and how they behaved. Their appearances and mannerisms manifested themselves in a number of the main characters' personalities. Story has it that the original name of Stoker's main character was supposed to be the Hungarian "Wampyr". However, after some research in Whitby's library, Stoker found what he believed to be the translation of the Wallachian word dracula, which meant devil. At that moment in the small English fishing village, the demon scourge himself was born.

While visiting Whitby, Stoker was engaged by residents with stories of how a visiting schooner had dumped its cargo of coffins and decomposing bodies ashore. It was of course a feast of fright and frivolity that was unflinchingly incorporated into Stoker's novel. It was perfect. The ideal backdrop for the arrival of the monster Nosferatu had been found.

What makes the story a little more interesting however, is how many people visit Whitby with the belief that the vampire himself actually walked the shores. The town offers tours of the site where the Demeter landed. That was his boat. You are left with the freedom to decide for yourself as to whether it was a work of fiction that inspired the legend, or if actual events inspired Stoker's novel. Very scary stuff! Perfect for the crazy in all of us.

My friends tell me that every year on the anniversary of the Count's arrival, the Goths swarm to Whitby to celebrate. Goth enthusiasts in particular make it a point to visit during the biannual gothic music weekends. I am told it is quite a site to see. For all the hype and hoopla it is interesting to note that when Stoker first released the novel, it received very little attention. The story only gained momentum after Hollywood embraced it in the 1900s sometime after Stoker's death.

So if you ever find yourself visiting the United Kingdom, make a point of stopping over in Whitby. It is a beautiful place to see and you might even catch a glimpse of our fanged friend nibbling on an afternoon snack.

Published by sam clemens

comedy and satire writer  View profile

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