Drinking in Prague

No visit to the Czech Republic is complete without a visit to a traditional Czech pub, arguably the center of Czech social life. And below you will find some of the things you should know before sitting down in a pub in Prague.

1. The whole system is completely different. There really isn't a bar counter per se for customers to sit and place an order. You sit at a table, but there is no real organization to it. There's no host to show you to a table, you just find a seat. And that seat may be at a table occupied by other people. You cannot assume that you'll be given a private table. It's an interesting way to meet people.

2. Many pubs in Prague have bars in the basement or a rear courtyard. And these places are usually the most fun. They are rarely advertised, however, so don't be afraid of being a little aggressive. Enter a place, look around, and if you don't like it, just leave. It's not considered offensive. So please don't be shy.

3. Non-alcoholic beverages, such as sodas, juices, water, coffee and tea are available, but expect to pay more for them than the price of a beer.

4. The Czech Republic is world famous for its beer, so there is little sense to traveling there and drinking an import. That said, not all Czech beers are equal. The premium brands are Pilsner Urquell and Budweiser Budvar (no relation to the Anheuser-Bush product). Pilsner is filled with a hops flavor which gives it a light yet powerful touch. Budvar is a bit heavier but is still smooth. Mid-range beers are Gambrinus and Staropramen. Gambrinus is the lighter and smoother of the two, but Staropramen has a good hearty taste. The last of the Czech "majors" is Krušovice. It is the cheapest , and unfortunately, due to problems at the brewery, the quality you find at the tap runs the gamut from a Pilsner Urquell taste to something Czechs wouldn't even give to their dogs.

5. The Czech Republic categorizes beers differently. Basically, there are two categories, 10° beer and 12° beer. These designations do not reflect alcohol content. They refer to the percentage of malt extract used in the brewing process. Essentially, a 10° beer has an alcohol content of 3%, while a 12° beer has 5%.

6. The average resident of Prague pays 20-25Kc (Czech Crowns) for a half liter glass of beer. Yes, in the Center of the city, everything is more expensive, but please consider 50Kc to be an absolute price threshold. I would equate paying 50Kc for a beer in Prague to paying $8 for a beer in Los Angeles. (No, that's not a strict monetary conversion; but most Praguers pay the equivalent of about $1 for a beer in a pub.)

7. There are other local drinks, the most popular are Slivovice, Fernet Stock, and Becherovka. Slivovice, a plum-based liqueur, is potent and in most cases an acquired taste. If you travel out of Prague into the Czech countryside, you will find many villagers who make there own Slivovice. Fernet Stock is an herbal liqueur with a bitter taste. Of the three, I prefer Becherovka. It is best served chilled or on the rocks. It is sometimes taken as a shot. I like sipping it with a beer.

8. Absinthe is sold in the Czech Republic, and it is a popular drink with tourists, but please be forewarned that it bears little resemblance and has no relation to its French counterpart made famous in Parisian cafes a hundred years ago. The absinthe produced in the Czech Republic is Bohemian style absinthe and is drunk with caramelized sugar in a shot fashion.

9. The sign for the restrooms say WC. That part is easy, but when you get to the door denoting the sex you'll find that the doors are rarely marked in English. Some will use symbols, but remembering a little Czech here will help you a lot; the Gents' room is usually labeled as Pany or Muzi. The Ladies room is labeled Damy.

10. Be prepared to pay in cash as many places in Prague do not accept credit cards. More importantly, do not leave money on the table. Always settle the tab in person with the server! An average tip is 10%.