Driving the Karakoram Highway, Pakistan

For many travelers to Pakistan, a trip on the Karakoram Highway (KKH) is an essential part of the journey. Tracing an old Silk Route into China, the KKH is one of the highest paved roads in the world. Hundreds of lives were lost building the road over steep gorges of the Indus River, and you'll even rise above snow capped peaks before you reach the Pak-China border at 4,693m (15,397 feet) Khunjerab Pass. This road winds through the geological wonder that is where the three mighty mountain ranges, the Himalayas, the Karakoram, and the Hindu Kush, came to collide.

If you decide to drive the KKH yourself, an adventure surely awaits you. Be prepared and follow these tips to keep yourself safe on the road.

The Right Vehicle

4WD vehicles are by far better for the KKH than non-4WD, as the road is far from a "highway" by modern standards. When you come out of the jeep trails and surrounding valleys, you will consider the KKH as something of a highway, but the road is still pot-holed, washed out, and susceptible to land slides in many areas. If you choose to go with a non-4WD, choose a car with high clearance. Drive something that you don't mind getting beat up a bit. Make sure to carry extra fluids and a tool kit, because you can get stuck miles from the nearest town or village. If you want to go all the way to the China-Pak border, you'll need a vehicle that can still function properly at an altitude of over 15,000 feet.

Be Prepared

Make sure to pack plenty of food and water for the trip. If you come across a landslide and the road is blocked, you can be stuck for hours or even days until it is cleared. Most slides are cleared within 24 hours, but larger ones have taken up two weeks to clear. If stuck at a slide, you'll notice that passengers on public transport will walk across the slide with their luggage and swap vehicles. If you're driving your own vehicle, you'll just have to wait it out. A deck of cards may come in handy.

Have a good map and guide book so that you know where you are at all times. You wouldn't want to miss the last petrol stop and run out of fuel in the middle of nowhere. Bring your own toilet paper for roadside squatty potties if you want it.

Getting There

Most travelers who drive the KKH come from Islamabad. You have two options to get to the entrance of the KKH. You can follow the GT road or take the Motorway. The GT road is more direct, but the Motorway is by far more enjoyable and less chaotic. If taking the GT road, follow the road until Hasan Abdal. You'll see a sign directing you to take a right to get on the KKH. If you take the Motorway, get off at the exit for Hasan Abdal. Take a left when you come out of the toll booth and look for the sign for the KKH entrance. You will drive on the GT road, going back towards Islamabad, for a few minutes. The entry to the KKH will be a left turn marked by a sign.

The KKH itself is one long road, and it would be very difficult, if not impossible, to make a wrong turn!

The Drive

From Hasan Abdal to Mansehra the road is wide and traffic is busy. There are many places to stop and fill up on petrol or CNG. As you continue driving, traffic thins out and so does the road. Most vehicles will be buses, trucks, vans and coasters plying the way to Gilgit and beyond. It's best to leave early to get the maximum amount of daylight hours on the road after Mansehra. Driving in the daytime is dangerous enough, but driving the KKH at night can be compared to suicide. Many drivers make it all the way from Islamabad to Gilgit in a single 15 hour drive, but this is only if you're booking it and don't get too slowed down by slide zones. If you're new to the KKH, I'd suggest staying a night in Abbotabad and waking up at the crack to attempt getting all the way to Gilgit before dark.

If you're driving slower, go from Pindi to Dasu in one 8 to 10 hour day, and then wake up early and drive from Dasu to Gilgit on the second day. When you reach Chilas, you have 4 to 5 hours left before you reach Gilgit. Times are dependent on road conditions and what vehicle you have. A speedy bus can do Chilas to Gilgit in 3 to 4 hours max.

The Dangers

There are several factors you should be aware of if you plan to drive the KKH yourself. First of all, many other drivers do not use lights at night and may come barreling around a blind turn in your lane with no warning. Flash your highbeams when rounding corners to let people know you're coming. Bedford trucks carrying goods can be quite difficult to pass, during the day or during the night, depending how wide the road is.

Most of the drive is through the North West Frontier Province, which is not very welcoming of foreigners. There have been times where the road has been blocked due to anti-American demonstrations, although this is not common. Many people are not used to seeing Westerners, in particular Western women. Kids and unemployed adults may spend their day throwing stones at foreigners' cars along the road. The Pakistani government does not have much control in the areas beyond the KKH. The road is also prone to landslides and can be quite dangerous during or after heavy rain.

So you've got three things to deal with, other drivers, inhospitable locals, and bad road conditions. Wear modest clothes and use window screens if you can. Women who are visible would probably feel more comfortable with their hair covered. You'll see many local women in burkas, if you see women at all.

Enjoy the Ride

Driving the KKH is not for the faint of heart or inexperienced drivers. Once you start driving along the Indus River, you'll be rewarded with some of the most spectacular scenery in the world. You'll need to stop for petrol and a bathroom break when you get a chance, especially as you get deeper into NWFP. You'll also need to stop for passport registration at least twice along the way.

Taking your own vehicle is the best way to truly appreciate the amazing views on this breathtaking road. You can stop for photos whenever you'd like and you don't have to endure screeching music on a local bus or van all through the night. Once get you to Pakistan's Northern Areas, you'll see that the long journey was worth every minute.