Dry Flowers for Winter Bouquets

Some of the easiest materials to handle are those that can be picked and simply hung upside down to dry in a warm, dark place such as a closet or attic. Some of the wild plants that can be treated in this way include cattails, milkweed pods, golden rod, Queen Anne's lace, sumac, curly dock, yarrow, and many wild grasses. In the garden, plants known as everlastings are suitable for drying by this method. Such plants include strawflowers, globe amaranth, statice, money plant, and celosia.

The brightest colored flowers in dried arrangements are usually garden flowers that have been dried in one of several special ways. The two techniques most often used are the sand-borax method, and the silica-gel method. The sand-borax mixture is made from one part borax added to an equal amount of clean sand. Cornmeal or vermiculite are sometimes used in place of sand. Their lighter weight makes them less likely to mash down petals during drying. After the flowers have been carefully placed in this mixture, the open container should be placed in a warm, dry place. Normally most flowers will dry in this mixture in about two weeks.

Silica-gel is a flower-drying material available from garden centers, florists, or hobby stores. This material absorbs moisture from flowers very rapidly, and thereby flower color is often better preserved. Many flowers dry in this material in 36 to 48 hours. Silica gel must be used in an air-tight container, or it will absorb moisture from the air and flowers will dry poorly. After use, it can be dried in a warm oven for re-use.

Some of the best flowers for drying in either material include marigold, zinnia, aster, rose, dahlia, chrysanthemum, carnation, larkspur, delphinium, and snapdragon. Before placing flowers in the drying materials, remove the stems. Get some wire from the florist, and make stems for the flowers. Use a piece of wire four to six inches long, and place a small hook in the end. Pull the wire through the flower by placing the straight end in the top of the flower and pushing it through the center of the flower until the hook catches in the flower and is hidden among the petals.

Wire should be thin enough so that it does not deform the flower. It can be bent out of the way during drying, and later added to, or cut off, to make the proper length of stem for arranging. Wire can be wrapped with green florist tape for a neater appearance. Most important when drying flowers is to cover blossoms carefully. Place the flower in the container on enough material so that the back row of the petals is resting firmly. Sift the drying material around and between the petals so that they are held in a natural position until the flower is completely covered.

Petals that are allowed to flatten or fold under will dry in that position. Dry more flowers than needed. Not all will be perfect, and some have to be discarded. Others may be broken while handling. With practice, collecting and drying flowers becomes a pleasing and rewarding activity.

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