Eating in the Middle of Nowhere in Exeter, Rhode Island

Bringing up the desire to eat at a truck stop in mixed company almost always promotes conversation about good local places to eat. Generally speaking I always order things I don't make at home which usually means one of two categories, fried and seafood. A conversation about French fries turned to fish and chips and thusly to the diner a short distance from my boss' home. That is how we discovered the Middle Of Nowhere Diner in Exeter RI.

On a cool Saturday afternoon we decided to go to the middle of nowhere, find the diner and have lunch. Just when it looked like we were in the middle of nowhere there was the diner. It sure wasn't anything to look at. We looked at each other and said in unison "how bad can it be?" Very often these are the last words we say before investing in a warehouse pack of antacids.

Inside it was a typical middle of nowhere kind of place, linoleum floor, dropped ceiling, a bar that sat five or six people and small booths for up to four. The drop ceiling tiles were stained but not falling down the fixtures were dated but not beat up. The place could have stood a little dusting but it was clean and the staff was diligent in wiping down booths and sweeping the floor. And no, neither of us used the facilities so there is no bathroom review to be had.

The menu featured all day breakfast, soup and salad, appetizers, burgers and sandwiches, club sandwiches, dinners, chicken, pasta, and seafood over seven pages! Bonus for me, fried seafood abounded! Though it seems like it's a huge menu in fact it's a list of all the best variations on traditional diner comfort foods.

First we ordered drinks, the usual cola and water; I've made a mental note to order their own iced tea next time. We started with hot, golden brown, crispy and sweet onion rings. What more could you want from an onion ring?

Soup came with the meals so we opted for seafood bisque and white clam chowder. Both were good but the white clam chowder was a clear winner. In fact it was one of the best we've had in a very long time. Potatoes were perfect, creaminess was not pudding like, and it was flavorful without being overpowered by any one ingredient. The seafood bisque was a pink base and had surimi, baby shrimp, and scallops in it, tangy and sweet flavors combined perfectly.

On to the main courses, please keep in mind this is the only thing we ate all day. The king cut of prime rib cooked medium rare with beets and mashed potatoes with gravy required multiple plates. The meat was tender and enjoyed as were the non-pickled beets but the standout item was the mashed potatoes with gravy. Simple food done well is always a hit. The portion was impossible to finish, as you might have guessed, and my dogs enjoyed the leftovers.

The fisherman's platter was a 12" round plate heaped high with French fries, clam strips, scallops, four jumbo shrimp and a piece of golden battered fish. Can you say heaven? I did! Tender sweet scallops and clam strips were a good contrast for the slightly heavier tasting fish filet. Curled shrimp were crispy on the outside and firm on the inside. Even the tartar sauce was fantastic.

The whole meal cost us about $50.00 with tip. It was an easy fifty dollars to fork over as all of the food was good and portions were massive. The staff was friendly and attentive and there was a bit of entertainment as we all speculated what was going on with a traffic stop in front of the building. Now you know where that cop you're always looking for is, the middle of nowhere. If you get down toward Exeter RI in your travels, perhaps on your way to or from the beach, bypass the usual clam shacks and head out a little further to The Middle Of Nowhere Diner at 222 Nooseneck Hill Road.