Eccentric Destinations in Downtown Salt Lake City, Utah

Salt Lake City is among other things, a bustling tourist town. The attractions are legion: skiing and snowboarding, the upcoming Sundance Film Festival, Temple Square, Business Meetings and Conventions, and the Family History Genealogy Library, among others. Many of the city's sites are obvious and easy, and information can be found on Salt Lake City's tourism website and from a smorgasbord of pamphlets and brochures available at the airport, hotels and restaurants. There's Temple Square, Hogle Zoo, The Lion House, The Beehive House, This is the Place Park, etc.--and that's all fun, valuable and dandy.

But, for those interested in a more non-touristy, underground experience, or attracted to the darker, weirder side of history and culture, Salt Lake City delivers. If you will be visiting Salt Lake City and this sounds like it's right up your dark alley, this is the guide for you. Most of my picks below are either within walking distance of downtown hotels, or the easily accesible and cheap TRAX light rail public transportation system. Others are within minutes of downtown by car or cab.

Judge Building
8 East Broadway (300 South)

On October 15, 1985, master forger and ex-LDS missionary Mark Hofmann took the elevator to the 6^th floor of the historic Judge Building, and left a package containing a bomb that would soon kill businessman and LDS bishop Steven Christensen propped up on the door of his office--suite 609. The so called "Mormon Forgery Murders" that would terrorize members of the Mormon history community were officially underway. Hofmann is generally acknowledged as one of the best forgers of all time, and also as the best forger yet caught. He is one of Utah's most notorious criminal masterminds and the bizarre tale of his deception is a compelling crime story. For those interested in criminal history and/or the criminal mind, Linda Sillitoe's masterful work Salmander is required reading.

There are reports that the elevators in the judge building engage by themselves, and employees have reportedly heard footsteps in the hall after hours. At the street level is Esther's Café, with healthy selections of homemade soups, sandwiches, garlic burgers and fries. Two blocks east is Salt Lake Film Society's Broadway Theatre, a wonderful ex-small-megaplex film venue which now hosts independent and arthouse films, and is part of the Sundance Film Festival venue each January.

Shilo Inn
206 South West Temple

Legend has it that the hotel is haunted. Actually, according to the website utahghost.org, just about everything in this area is supposed to be haunted: banks, restaurants, and Capitol Theatre just east of the 200 south and West Temple intersection. The hotel's ghost story (which differs in various sources) centers around a mother who supposedly threw her children off the balcony, then jumped to her own death. The external elevator is said to have strange reflections on the glass, the pool area near the lobby is said to be an area in which echoing laughter is heard, and the pinball machine is haunted. What more could one wish for?

One World Cafe
41 South 300 East

Just 3 blocks east of downtown, One World Café is worth the walk. This uber-conscious café was featured on Oprah (I know...but you should go anyway...) and is known for its innovative and daring anonymous-name-your-own-price dynamic. Upon entering, friendly servers and staff greet and explain how the café works. There are two choice of self-serve soup that change daily, then the servers will dish up your plate cafeteria-style. A tip: they are a little reserved on the serving sizes-so if you are hungry, don't hesitate to say you would like more when they ask if the little spoonful is 'enough.' They aren't being stingy or judging your appetite, they are trying to avoid waste.

The food at One World is organic and much of it is grown a just a couple blocks away in their garden. It leans toward the vegan and vegetarian, but meat items are also available daily. Also, don't go expecting extravagance or complexity-the dishes are very 'homemade'-but that's a good thing. Coffee and tea are available, and the 'Everything Bars' are very yummy and highly recommended for dessert. Or, for a more indulgent dessert, try Mrs. Backers Pastry Shop around the corner. The chocolate donuts are infamous.

Summum
707 Genesse Street

Salt Lake City's temple is no secret-well at least one of them isn't. That's right, there is another temple-located just minutes from downtown. Corky Ra received philosophical knowledge and technical instructions from aliens during a 1975 mystical close encounter. Following this counsel, the religion of Summum was born. There's a pyramid temple, nectar publications (wine,) divine sex tenets, mummification, and anything and everything else you could hope to expect from a UFO cult . But, strange as its origins may be, it's hard to find fault with the central message: "Awakening you to your spirit is what Summum considers to be genuine religion." The temple is open to the public every Thursday from 7:30-8:30 pm, for philosophical readings.

If you're driving, don't miss what is perhaps Salt Lake City's favorite lovechild restaurant, the fabulous Red Iguana. There's always a line out the door, but don't let that stop you--the parking lot is large and free, and the line goes very quickly. The enchiladas poblanas are perfect, and the homemade chili con queso is the best on the planet. Whatever you do, just make sure you get something with one of their several mole sauces. The only drawback is that once you return home and you crave that chili con queso, nothing else will satisfy. You'll just be forced to plan another trip. Red Iguana is located about 8 blocks north of Summum at 736 West North Temple. Once you're back dowtown, top the evening off browsing used books in Sam Weller's labrythine basement--Red Iguana and Sam Weller's just go together. It's a tradition. Ask any Salt Laker. Sam Weller's Zion Bookstore bookstore is located at 254 South Main Street in the heart of downtown Salt Lake.

Gilgal Sculpture Garden
749 East 500 South

Gilgal Garden is the stoney love poem of Thomas Battersby Child. The garden is Salt Lake City's most precious and enduring mecca of folk art. The passion and visions of Child-a former Mormon Bishop--manifest grandly and curiously in 12 stone sculptures, and on over 70 stones engraved with scriptures, poems, and literary texts. You simply can't pass up Joseph Smith's head placed on a Sphinx, the enigmatic Mr. Brickpants, or anything else at Gilgal Garden.

Gilgal is close to Xocolate, Salt Lake City's best chocolatier, and the famous (now infamous) Trolley Square shopping center; its Desert Edge Pub located on the second floor is highly recommended. Hires Big H is also just around the corner on 700 East and 400 south. The homemade veggie burgers are the best in the city, and the fry sauce and of course, root beer is legendary.