El Cortez: The Best of Las Vegas' Fremont Street

If you are planning a trip to Las Vegas, there are some reasons you may consider spending a night or more downtown on Fremont Street, the original Las Vegas Strip. Dividing your lodgings between The Strip and Fremont Street adds some welcome diversity, and a change of scenery, even within a very short stay. There are lots of great casinos in Old Vegas, but one in particular stands out-the fabulous El Cortez.

How to know if it's for you? Well, if you appreciate kitsch over the mundane, diners over grand buffets, the 40's over the 90's, it's a start. The El Cortez has an authentic Old Vegas aura-more so than any other casino I have ventured into, and that is saying something. It's clean, but you get the idea that it may not have always been. It's safe, but you don't want to necessarily venture too much further away in the wrong direction on Fremont Street. The right direction will be obvious.

The El Cortez was built in 1941, and was purchased by Bugsy Seigel in 1946. A large tower with rooms was added in 1963, after Jackie Gaughan aquired the property. He still owns it today, living in a penthouse atop the tower, and making daily appearances in the casino. Although the main building which houses the casino has been remodeled, it retains a vintage sensibility, and is cozier, relaxed, and more restrained than other, larger Fremont Street casinos.

The gaming available includes the standard keno, blackjack, roulette, and table games. The attraction are the slots, however. The El Cortez has a word of mouth reputation for being the 'loosest' casino on Fremont Street. That's saying something; Fremont Street itself is said to have the world's loosest slot machines. Highly recommended slot machines at El Cortez are Twilight Zone, and The Munsters; we did rather well on those machines consistently.

Hotel amenities include three restaurants: Careful Kitty's Café, Roberta's Steakhouse, and Chinese Kitchen Buffet. Careful Kitty's Café is recommended for authentic, non-food-service variety diner food. The blueberry pancakes at Careful Kitty's are particularly tasty, and obviously made from scratch. The Chinese Kitchen Buffet was mediocre, rather bland, and on par with buffets like Sahara. But, 2-for-1 buffet coupons are usually given with the room, and considering that, it makes a suitable, inexpensive and easy dinner. There is also a gift store, a couple beauty salons, a Subway, and Dreyer's ice cream area.

The El Cortez is just a long city block away from the beginning of The Fremont Street Experience. The Old Strip now sports a massive covering, and must be seen at night, to be believed. An entire day can be spent on Fremont Street, without boredom or backtracking. Many of the old casinos maintain their original exteriors, and the vintage feeling is pleasing. In addition to casinos, there are smaller bars in which large, 99 cent margaritas can be purchased, a movie theatre with first run movies, a Starbucks with free wi-fi, and a Krispy Kreme.

Do not miss bingo at The Plaza. Located at the end of the strip, it is a welcome respite from the hullabaloo. Five bucks for two bingo packets buys you a couple hours of silly excitement, free beer, and popcorn. It is a nicely small bingo auditorium, located on the upper level of The Plaza. Equally recommended is the incredible buffet at Main Street Station, just to the left of the Plaza. The food here was atypical for a moderately priced Vegas buffet, in that was fantastic, and quite welcome after inferior delights. The Main Street Station restaurant is bright, new, and comfortable. The restrooms feature large rocky monoliths of the Berlin Wall. I found that perfect. Ah, Vegas-the ultimate in random, anachronistic simulacra. Except the monoliths really are chunks of the Berlin Wall.

The El Cortez is real enough to stand apart from the Las Vegas Strip, because of distance, and Fremont Street, because of its simplicity. It's a great choice, and quite affordable, with rates ranging from $40 and up. We even received vouchers for two free nights, to be used during the following month. Reservations can be made via the El Cortez website, and venues like expedia.com. Happy travels.