El Fuego in Philadelphia

El Fuego, a minimalist joint in the Wash West neighborhood of Philadelphia, isn't true Mexican. Co-owner John McNamee (Winner of our Cutest Caucasian Owning A Mexican Restaurant Award) dubs his fare "California-style." Basically appealing to the connoisseur, but homogenized for Middle America. Since most of us still fondly recall Chi-Chi's, this is a good thing.

Food is ordered in a format that would make Henry Ford proud, with a crack staff assembly-lining burritos and quesadillas. Side-note on the staff: They have their share of heartbreakers. El Fuego is known for devilishly handsome bucks behind the burrito bar. Everything ordered is made fresh and on the spot. No microwave or freezer, so ingredients are fresh. Customers say what ingredients they want in their tacos or burrito, and exactly how much of each. Self-serve beverages finalize the deal; or beer, Corona and more the gringo-friendly Yuengling, is available for the quick nip.

El Fuego ("the Fire" in English) food is quick, and good. Fresh flour tortillas are heated on a panini grill. Corn tacos and tortillas are instantly fried, seasoned by salt and limejuice. Adobo-marinated chicken and sirloin, and slow-cooked brisket serve as the carne fillers. The cheese is a blend of jack and cheddar, neither classically Mexican, but let's be diplomatic, hunh? Both pinto and black beans are offered, and we usually ask for a bit of both. Why choose?

In the end, it's all about the salsa. El Fuego has 3 different versions of salsa. Mild fresco is simply diced tomato, cilantro, red onion and jalapeno, fresh but boring and basic. Tomatillos pureed with cilantro, onion and jalapenos served as the "medium" option, and was a spicy hit. "Hot" is a mixture of the medium salsa with grilled chipotles and fiery de Arbol chiles. Be warned, hot is very hot. Best of all is the guacamole: avocados ripened to greenness and mixed with cilantro, red onion, jalapenos, and lime and lemon juices. Dense, rich and pure, way better then Chi-Chi's!

Any item, be it burrito or quesadilla is outstanding. El Fuego also features salads, and several healthier options for the calorie queens among us. There's no poor choice in the bunch, and trust us, we've had them all. El Fuego's popularity is visible at peak lunch hours, when a line often forms out the door. Once you visit, you're setting yourself up for a return. While our heritage might be Irish/German mutt, it is clear our stomach is Mexican. Maybe Mom has some explaining to do.

El Fuego, 723 Walnut St, Philadelphia, 215-592-1901, Mon-Fri 11am-10pm. $