Eleuthera Truly is Freedom

After visiting Maui, Cozumel and Grand Cayman, we have discovered that the ocean really does come in more colors than the murky green we grew up with in California. Sand can be any color from the purest white to the blackest black. It was like blinders had been lifted from our eyes. We caught the snorkeling bug on those trips.

Yearning for another sun-soaked holiday on sand and sea, our own piece of paradise awaited us on Eleuthera, in the Out Islands of the Bahamas. Several thousand miles separated us from landlocked restlessness and tropical nirvana. Now I have to admit, my coastline craving is more severe than my husband's, but we're both equally hooked on the snorkel experience.

Flying over the alluring archipelago of the Bahamas was breathtaking. My husband and I stepped off the plane with my brother and sister-in-law. I felt an instant euphoria I cannot describe. We found simplicity, warm water, lots of sun, snorkeling perfection and above all, privacy and relaxation. The sleepy, laid-back Eleuthera is quite noticeably untouched by modern development. This skinny strip of land, measures approximately 100 miles long and is only 2 miles at the widest point. It's fairly undeveloped by most tropical resort standards. The island offers the simple, authentic flavors of the real Bahamas.

Arriving at our beach house, we ran straight out to the private beach and jumped into the crystal clear water. Stunned by the beauty and warmth of the ocean, we walked on sand that seemed like cool pink baby powder. The water ranged from baby blue, aqua, teal and the deepest azure.

We affectionately named an adorable stray dog that adopted us for the week, Sea Biscuit. Mongrels here are called "potcakes" a term unique to the Bahamas.

Every languid afternoon was spent snorkeling and shell hunting on deserted beaches. One long and rough trek brought us to Preacher's Cave, where a small band of English pilgrims seeking religious freedom, landed on the island some 300 years ago. They named it Eleuthera, or "Freedom" in Greek.

A visit to Eleuthera is not complete without seeing the Glass Window Bridge. So named by Winslow Homer, who painted the area in 1885, and called the painting "Glass Window". The 30-foot-wide bridge separates the thrashing Atlantic from the calm Caribbean ocean. The "Bridge" was once just a natural formation, but years of wind and wild waves eroded the rock. Many storms have damaged the structure, and their is now a new causeway proposal under discussion.

We found many beautiful shells in Upper Bogue. One local woman asked us to see her handmade baskets. She then cleaned a couple of large conch shells that she gave to us just for buying her baskets.

We couldn't help but notice that the school children were impeccably dressed in crisp uniforms. We found the townspeople helpful and sincere. The souvenir and craft shop proprietors very appreciative of even the smallest purchase.

One adventure led us on the search for the famed "shell beach." It seemed to elude us on every level. But we forged on and ended up returning to Rainbow Bay, where we finally found a great cache of fighting conch shells. While in a town called James Cistern, we asked a local merchant if she knew where this elusive "shell beach" was. She laughed and said, "Don't really know no shell beach, mon. You know da shells, all kind of dem along here and down dare, dey just roll up and dey roll down wit da waves, you know. De ocean just mixes dem all togeda, den dey just roll back out. But I don't know of no shell beach, hahaha!"

A road to the wild Atlantic side of the island led us to "the cliffs." Once again, my trusty camera captured the fierce and magnificent waters that bordered the eastern side of Eleuthera. The western side, exhibited the Caribbean's personality, gentle and easygoing, just like its people.

Our last full day in paradise began with a breathtaking sunrise. We drove to the southernmost end of the island to find a long-abandoned lighthouse in Bannerman. The three-mile-long dirt road was narrow, full of rocks and seemed to get worse the further we went. The lighthouse had no markers or monuments commemorating its history. Inside the lighthouse we took photos of some stunning views of the beach and treacherous reef it once protected. From there we spied deserted beach areas that ended up to be the perfect snorkeling sight. An amazing open-faced cave of sandstone was cut out by the wind and waves. Compelled by the photographer in me, I snapped away at every angle. It was a perfect place for our towels while we swam in the crystal clear water. We found countless sand dollars and sunrise telins. The scenery called out, "Wish you were here," and we were!

That night, my husband and I took one last midnight stroll along the soft pink sand with our adopted friend, Sea Biscuit. The moonlight was just enough to guide our way, but not so much we couldn't see millions of stars. I don't know if it was the sheer beauty of this magical place, or knowing we had to leave it that brought tears to my eyes.

Whether you spend three days or three months, a stay on Eleuthera will change your mind about island vacations. No glitz or glamour. It's not about the casinos, the nightlife, the tourist traps, or end-to-end excursions. It's about remembering who you are, why you are here, and in the end, slowing down.

This unspoiled treasure will pull you into the blushing sands, which get their color from a blend of coral, tiny shells, calcium carbonate and a pink, microscopic shelled animal called "foraminifera". Who wouldn't want that in their backyard?

Here, you'll make your own itinerary and most likely that will include mingling with the locals. The people here are warm and hospitable. The ocean and beach scenery is raw and unobstructed. For miles you'll find totally deserted pink sand beaches without ever seeing a soul, let alone a human footprint. A week in Eleuthera is not nearly long enough. We didn't make it to nearby Harbour Island or Spanish Wells. But it was heavenly to fall asleep and rise in the morning to the music of the gentle waves that lap the shore just outside your back door.

Truly, if you are ever fortunate enough to venture to this hidden gem, you'll treasure your memories of this magical place. The first time you step onto the blushing sands of Eleutera, you'll think you'd just made it to heaven.