Embroidering on Difficult to Hoop Projects

Often, an embroiderer would like to stitch on a hard to hoop piece of fabric. Many fabrics can be difficult to fit into a hoop because they are too delicate and a hoop might leave marks or tear the fabric. Other times, it is the shape of the piece that makes it difficult to secure into an embroidery hoop. Corners of hankies, cuffs and collar tips, and narrow pieces of fabric call all be difficult to hoop for embroidery.

There are a number of different approaches that can solve all of these problems. I've attempted to explain some of these different tactics, and give examples of which cases each will prove most helpful.

A Separately Hooped "Frame" or "Base" Piece

This is a piece of sturdy fabric with a hemmed hole in the center. The fabric is tightened in the hoop, and then the project is basted in place on it, with the design to be stitched centered in the hole.

To make the frame fabric, choose a tightly woven plain-weave cotton or cotton blend. Cut a square that will fit in your desired hoop size well with the grain of the fabric. This will minimize stretching. Place the fabric in the hoop, and then mark a square in the center, with the corners about half and inch from the hoop. Mark an X in this square from corner to corner and cut along the lines. The triangle flaps should then be trimmed, folded back, and hemmed into place. The shape of these hem pieces will keep the corners from being completely finished, but don't worry about a couple of small frayed threads. As long as the opening is on grain and hemmed, it will be sturdy enough to use.

After the initial prep work, this tool is easy to use. Simply baste the fabric that is being embroidered to the hoop fabric, keeping it smooth and taut as you do so. The you can embroider as usual, and clip the basting to free the work when it is finished. This is ideal for fine fabrics that are too delicate to hoop, or shapes like the corners of handkerchiefs.

Basted Extensions

When a piece that is narrow, or has a design printed close to edges is going to be embroidered, it can be pretty difficult to get the fabric secured without obscuring the design and making it impossible to stitch. This is easily remedied by basting strips of scrap fabrics to the sides of the main piece, then treating them as a single piece when tightening them in the hoop. The best way to baste the fabric together is to overlap them slightly and the use a long and wide zigzag stitch to cover the raw edges as you stitch the seam. This smooth flat seam will be the best for fitting into an embroidery hoop.

Plan Ahead

One of the best ways to embroider on the corners of napkins or handkerchiefs, or the small parts of shirts, like cuffs and collars, is to do the embroidery before cutting and hemming or sewing the pieces. Using a piece of fabric large enough to comfortably fit into the desired hoop and a disappearing marker, trace the pattern piece, making sure to bear in mind that the finished size will be smaller, and so transferring the embroidery design in relation to the seam lines, instead of the cutting lines.

These three techniques are very useful to learn and use when embroidering on delicate fabrics or oddly shaped pieces.