Ethnic Hair: How to Perm at Home

For women of color who choose to relax their hair, there are several options. The biggest one of these being whether or not to perm at home or at a salon. Contrary to popular belief, relaxing your hair at home is no more damaging than having it done at a hair salon. The extent of damage caused by perms for ethnic hair usually stems from lack of moisture, regardless of where your hair is done. With the right know how, you can relax your hair at home and still get salon results!

The first thing you will need to do is pick the right relaxer for your hair. Many do not follow the guidelines on the box. Some home perms are designed for very coarse hair and are not recommended for touch ups or those with hair easier to maintain. Typically, a regular strength relaxer should be used for touch ups and hair that isn't difficult to straighten. However, ethnic hair that has not been relaxed for many months may require a super strength perm. If the hair has been colored, excessively heat styled, or is prone to breakage, consider the regular strength, regardless. The brand you purchase is strictly based on preference.

Before even thinking of getting started, read all directions and make sure that you have everything that you need. You will need towels, a wide tooth comb, a timer, four to six hair clips, and some type of vaseline or petroleum jelly. The petroleum jelly is to put around the hair line and ears to prevent irritation of skin. Some kits may include this but many do not. Make sure the hair is free of tangles and will be able to be easily combed through. However, be sure not to scratch or pull too tightly on the roots of the hair.

The next step is to divide hair into even sections. While many may divide hair into sections of four, results may be better if you create six sections instead. Mix the perm solutions per provided instructions. Set the timer before you start applying the product. The length of time the relaxer stays on the hair is not based upon when you have covered the desired areas, but when you initially start. For this reason, it is important to work as quickly and efficiently as possible.

Starting with the back of the head and working upward into sections, smooth the relaxer into the roots. Do not yet apply to the hair line or tips of the hair, these areas should be last. After roots have been covered in all sections, smooth the hair using a wide tooth comb. Make sure all hair is straight and flat. It is now safe to precede to the hair line for the last ten minutes that the relaxer is to remain in the hair. Tips of the hair should always be last to avoid breakage of the hair. Wait for the timer and rinse.

There is a technique to rinsing the relaxer out of the hair. At home perm kits come with deactivating shampoo, this should always be used. It changes colors to indicate whether or not your hair is thoroughly rinsed. Before doing this, wet the hair and lather as much of the relaxer product out as you can. Otherwise, you will find that several rinses may be needed. Just to be on the safe side, I prefer a minimum of two, sometimes three rinses with the deactivating shampoo.

Towel blot hair and add the conditioner provided. Some hair relaxer kits may have leave in conditioner or the type that needs to be rinsed. Either way, be sure not to skip this vital step. Moisture is key for maintaining healthy ethnic hair. Blot any excess moisture and wrap the hair with a turban. Wait a few minutes and you can dry and style as usual.

Relaxing ethnic hair at home isn't as complicated as it sounds. There are a few other tips to keep in mind though. You do not have to leave the relaxer on your hair for the full time indicated. If for any reason it begins to burn, it should be washed out immediately. Also, if your hair doesn't take as long to set there is no need to leave it on as long. The less time the perm remains in your hair, the less damage you will have. You can have salon beautiful hair at home, for the fraction of the cost.