Evora: A Roman City in the Heart of Portugal

Most trips to Portugal begin and end either in the cosmopolitan city of Lisbon or on the sunny beaches of the Algarve, and anyone who wants to see anything beyond these two places usually heads straight for the port wine houses of Porto. For the solo traveler, breaking out of these well-trodden destinations isn't easy, since an overlooked destination must be easily and inexpensively reached and offer the kind of attractions that one can enjoy alone. Evora, in the heart of Portugal's Alto Alentejo, is just such a place.

Transportation
Evora is serviced by regular trains and buses from Lisbon, so a solo traveler can easily and cheaply make the trip to the city. The bus station is only a few minutes outside the western side of the old town's walls, while the train station is about half a mile from the city center. Both transit terminals sit astride major roads, so finding your way into the center of Evora will pose no problems. Evora's attractions are all located in the walkable historic city center.

Attractions
Evora dates back to Roman times, full of the sort of historic attractions easily enjoyed by the solo traveler. The center of the city is dominated the ruins of a 2nd Century AD temple. Surrounding the temple square are some fine examples of Evora's 15th Century architecture, such as the aforementioned pousada (a former convent) and its adjoining church and palace. On the other side of the temple square is the Se, an impressive Gothic structure with Romanesque roots.

The other main focus for Evora's visitors is its famed ossuary. On the other side of the old town is Igreja de Sao Francisco, with its Capela dos Ossos. A macabre-yet-serene place, the ossuary features walls and pillars made from the bones of over 5,000 monks, transferred from monastic cemeteries to the chapel to clear up badly needed space for the growing city. The inscription above the chapel door translates into "we bones here wait for your bones."

Dining
The Portuguese like to eat, and especially the Portuguese of the Alentejo. For a specifically Alentejan meal, such as pork with clams or lamb stew with mint, try Restaurante Taverna on Traversa de Santa Maria or O Sobreiro on Rua do Torres.

However, wherever you eat, don't skimp on the red wine. Evora sits in the middle of the region that produces the bulk of Portugal's table wine, with excellent wineries such as Herdade do Esporao. Even the ordinary table wine is very good, and goes for as little as 2 or 3 euros on a supermarket shelf. Buy a full bottle and take the rest back to your room with you for later.