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Experience the Feast of the Virgen De La Candelaria in Puno, Peru

Learn How You Can Experience One of South America's Most Spectacular Festivals

Kelly de Borda
The city of Puno (capital of the Peruvian department of the same name) is considered by many to be the capital of folklorica in Peru. It's known for having a variety of folk dances and music, like the diablada and the sikuri, and is also home to one of the most spectacular and important festivals in the southern Andes - the Feast of the Virgen de la Candelaria. The city's rich folk history and it's proximity to Lake Titicaca are the main reasons people visit, and this festival in early February is among it's biggest tourist draws.

The Virgen de la Candelaria (Candlemas Virgin) is the patron saint of Puno. In a blend of Catholic and indigenous culture, the Virgin is associated with Pachamama - the Incan "earth mother" - and is a symbol of both purity and fertility. The Feast of the Virgen de la Candelaria takes place on the second of February. However, the two week festival that surrounds the feast day actually begins on the previous Sunday with a parade to introduce the more than 150 regional dance groups that compete during the festival. These groups, called comparsas, follow the image of the Virgin Mary throughout the city streets and show off the detailed masks and music for which the festival is famous.

The Sunday that follows February 2 is when the competition takes place, with more than 50,000 dancers and 15,000 musicians taking part in the dances wearing trajes de luces, or costumes of light - so called because of the little reflective lenses sewn into the costumes to make them shine and sparkle.

All the dancing during the Festival is bound to make you hungry, and the Puno cuisine will not disappoint your taste buds. Puno is a center of agriculture, and you'll find the local dishes are based on ingredients native to the area, both plant and animal. You may enjoy dishes like thimpo, a delicious lamb stew seasoned with onions and aji, thickened with potato flour; or pesque, made from quinoa that is cooked with butter, milk and cheese. Or perhaps you'd prefer to try alpaca, which is served in a variety of ways from stews to oven roasted.

Speaking of alpaca, Puno is one of the best places in the world to buy artisanal handcrafts of not only alpaca wool, but also llama and sheep. Other handcrafted items are also available; especially during the Festival you'll find that many of the regional musical instruments are for sale in the shops, as are the traditional masks worn by the different dancing troupes.

If you're heading south to see the festival, the best way to get to Puno from Lima is by plane. The bus route is possible, but only recommended for the most adventurous of travelers, as the roads through the mountain passes are quite dangerous. Flying is inexpensive, with domestic carrier StarPeru charging less than $250 for round trip tickets. Your flight will take you from Lima to Manco Capac International Airport in Juliaca, the nearest airport to Puno. From there, you'll take a 45 minute bus ride to Puno proper.

There are several recommended hotels. The Hotel Libertador Isla Esteves is the only five star hotel in the area, and rates run from $150 for a standard room to $230 for a Junior Suite. La Hacienda Hotel has rooms and suites for about half that cost. Of course, there are lower cost hotels and hostels to be found.

Published by Kelly de Borda

Kelly is an American expat living in Lima, Peru with her husband and two sons. She has traveled through Asia and S. America, and spends her time now teaching English, freelance writing and taking care of her...  View profile

  • The Feast of the Virgen de la Candelaria is one of Peru's most extravagant festivals.
  • Over 50,000 dancers from around the region meet to compete during the festival.
  • The Puno region has delicious local cuisine based on fresh ingredients from the local farmers.

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