Fast Growing Trees Need Special Care

While we might list some fast growing shade tree, in fairness, we must also list one or more problems associated with them. These may include weak wood, susceptibility to wind or ice breakage, massive shallow root systems making growing grass and gardens near them difficult late summer growth subject to winter-kill, and serious insect or disease problems.

If the home owner selects one of the more problem-free trees with a medium or slow growth rate, it is possible to stimulate its growth so that a shade tree may still be developed fairly rapidly without any problems later. Start by digging a big hole, the bigger the better. The poorer the native soil, the bigger the hole should be for fastest growth. The hole should extend a fool or more beyond and below the existing root system of the tree selected.

Next, prepare and improve the soil that is to go back into the hole around the root system. If the existing soil is very poor, it may be best to purchase some good top soil. If purchasing the soil is not possible, use only the upper, or best, soil that was removed. Add to this soil liberal amounts of organic matter, at least one-third by volume. If the native soil is very tight add a coarse sand at about one-third by volume. If coarse sand is not available, substitute perlite to improve root aeration.

Even when topsoil is purchased, the addition of these materials is often beneficial, although the amount added need not be quite so great. A phosphorus fertilizer such as superphosphate or bone meal may also be thoroughly mixed into soil at planting time. Although a small amount of garden fertilizer may also be worked into the soil at that time, never add too much. Excess fertilizer easily damages young roots as they develop, thereby stunting growth. If in doubt, it is better not to add fertilizer containing nitrogen during planting, but make surface applications after the tree is established.

Good soil shouldcontain adequate fertility to get the plant off to a good start. Fertilize each fall and again in early spring after the tree is established. A fertilizer high in nitrogen may be used. Start with a healthy tree from a reputable nurseryman. Balled-and-burlapped trees or container grown trees normally get off to a faster start than bare root trees. If the tree has been grown in a container, remove it from the container and cut off any outer roots that circle the soil mass.

Other than that step, disturb the roots as little as possible during planting. Plant a tree no deeper than it has been growing, and allow for slight settling. Fill around the roots until the hole is about three-fourths full, pack lightly and water well. After the water has been absorbed, add the additional soil to fill the hole, but do not do any more tamping. Never work in muddy, wet soil. During the first few years, water regularly during the growing season whenever rainfall is inadequate. Slow surface watering, with either a soaker base or slow overhead sprinkler, is best. Keep soil moist, but avoid overwatering which can force oxygen out of the soil. Wrapping the trunk with burlap or commercial tree wrap materials is also beneficial in avoiding sunscald.

http://pubs.caes.uga.edu/caespubs/pubcd/L350.html