Finding R&R While Vacationing in the Caribbean's St. Kitts

Although St. Kitts welcomed thousands of visitors this month as host of the ICC Cricket World Cup (March 14 - 24), the sleepy island remains one of the Eastern Caribbean's natural beauties. Whether a sports fan with time to linger or a weekend island hopper, you'll find rest and relaxation here apart from the pack.

Downtown Basseterre
As capital of the Federation of St. Kitts and neighboring Nevis, Basseterre on the island's south coast presides over rambling rows of coral-colored buildings and a population that weaves unhurriedly throughout Independence Square during the placid 85-degree days. Home to Port Zante, where cruise ships dock for the day, and five minutes from the airport, the city is the commercial base of this 68-square-mile island but lacks a significant tourist presence.

Don't miss Kate Design, the gallery and store of Kate Spencer, a longtime resident who trained in Europe (Bank Street; 869-466-5295, www.katedesign.com). Spencer's oils and prints, as well as cards, placemats, and silk scarves, are truly Kittitian, depicting scenes of the island's tropical landscape and African emancipation with vibrant colors. Grab the island's version of a "frappucino" - coffee, ice cream, and whipped cream - at the Palm Café and sip as you browse nearby Caribelle Batik and Island Hopper for batik-print dresses (made with a wax-imprinted dyeing technique) and hand-carved jewelry (www.caribellebatikstkitts.com). There are no Starbucks on the island, but the Saturday-night line up of native Kittitians angling for KFC and a newly-minted Domino's Pizza spills out onto the street.

Frigate Bay
Dig your heels into the black sands of the beach at Frigate Bay, less than 10 minutes from Bassetterre by car, or rent a beach chair and soak up the sun. Students from nearby Ross University School of Veterinary Medicine come on Friday afternoons -
their dogs in tow - for stress-relieving beach volleyball tournaments and a daiquiri, burger, and fries from Ziggy's, a beachfront bungalow. When you're ready for action, wander up and down the beach, browsing jewelry vendors or collecting shells along the shore. Right behind is the 18-hole Royal St. Kitts Golf Course.

If the underwater is your scene, buckle up your BCD and head out to sea with Dive St. Kitts (Bird Rock Beach Hotel, 465-3670). Anchor five minutes from shore and descend 35 feet down to River Taw, a dive site home to an abandoned 144-foot freighter, van, and tractor. Turtles, coral, angelfish, snappers, puffer fish now call these vehicles home.

Turtle Beach Bar and Grill
Although waiters are eager to brag that they have served the likes of Matthew McConnaughey, Nelly Furtado, and Paul Simon, Turtle Beach on the tip of St. Kitts' southeastern peninsula has retained a rustic beach cottage feel with swaying hammocks, island music, and a choice of seafood or barbecue. Go on Friday night for the grilled lobster, which is delivered weekly, and listen as the waves crash against the dock. Bring a light jacket for comfort against the cool night breeze. Conde Nast Traveller listed the restaurant as one of the "24 coolest beachfront restaurants in the Caribbean" in its February issue, so it might be wise to beat the crowds here before they catch on (Turtle Beach; 869-469-9086).