Five Guys Burgers and Fries: Worth the Price?

When Five Guys Burgers and Fries made its way to Ann Arbor, Michigan, the eatery's reputation as an upgraded fast food joint sounded like a worthwhile dinner out. After all, how much can a hamburger, fries, and soda cost?

Roughly nine dollars a person. As my dining companion placed our orders - two cheeseburgers, a regular fries which we would split, and two regular sodas - we mentally calculated the grand total, only to flinch when the exact total popped up in neon green. Nearly twenty dollars for something that could be had for half the cost at Wendy's, and in the tranquil cream and maroon décor of said eatery. Instead, we shuffled through a mob of college kids toward the soda machine, where we waited for our orders and unsuccessfully searched for open seats. We were in the heart of Ann Arbor's college scene at dinner hour, and forced to head to the lower level seating.

The ambiance of Five Guys can best be described as "mall food court." Think white and red checkerboard patterns, clinical lighting, with seating squeezed among big barrels of peanuts - a nod, perhaps, to that upper echelon of beef-based dining: the steakhouse. The main level of seating had a chaotic flair that, initially, I was sorry to leave. The basement level lacked windows and charm. It verged on claustrophobic. But it was the only option.

Within five minutes, my dining companion trekked down the steps with our order. He placed a brown bag stained with grease on the table. As he hoisted my burger from the bag, I worried that someone had messed up the order - the foil-wrapped object was that large. Turns out, as my dining companion informed me, that the "cheeseburger" is actually a two-patty burger, meaning that I would be consuming my caloric intake for the week. The more modestly title "little cheeseburger" would have done just fine. Likewise, a "regular" fries equates to a giant cup overflowing with enough starchy wedges to feed three to four people.

Burgers come with an assortment of free toppings including: grilled mushrooms, onions, tomatoes, mayo, pickles, grilled onions, peppers, and optional sauces. I opted for the full spectrum of toppings, and found myself relieved to be devouring this burger in the isolation of basement seating. I could barely hold everything together, in part because the burger was so statuesque, but mainly because the burger and bun were sliding around in grease. This was not a burger to eat among acquaintances. Granted, the burger was cooked nicely and certainly moist, but the shiny film on my fingers and mouth had me planning a day of fasting. And the fries, as my companion agreed, were tasty, but not spectacular.

For nearly twenty dollars, I believe that two people can find a more unique and rewarding dining experience. If I want to satisfy a burger and fries craving, I'll visit Wendy's (unless In 'n' Out ever comes east!). But Five Guys? Too much money for the same old thing.