Fly Fishing High Water

It is common to start seeing high water in many trout streams at some point during spring runoff. I'm not sure what water conditions portend just now, but when areas receive above average snowfall, and when this begins melting chances are good certain streams will be high. Of course much of this is dependent on temperature, rainfall, cloud cover and other general weather conditions.
First, contact local fly shops for up-to-date information about stream conditions. If the water in a given area is high and you still decide to go, that might work out great because more fair-weathered folks might be staying away from these streams. In addition, spring in trout country might just mean fly fishing for bass, bluegill and other warm water species, or fishing high elevation lakes that begin to thaw and offer great fishing for lake-abiding trout. In other words, there should be plenty of fly fishing options open. Never listen to the naysayers when it comes to fishing: instead, just go fishing soon and often! That's usually best.

If the water looks like thick chocolate milk, find a lake or move upstream and above influxes of water that might be bringing the mud. Sometimes a short hike or drive will put us above the nemesis that is bringing color to the stream. Below dams, where the water is being released from reservoirs, this is particularly true. Often a small tributary below the dam is running heavy and carrying mud into the stream. Oddly, however, smaller streams that feed larger streams may actually be clearer a little higher and away from their own little tributaries that bring sediment and mud. Move around and keep options available. After all, we fish because we're optimists - or don't want to mow grass.

When water has some clarity - say we can see into it up to about 12-18", for example - the trout can see to eat. We'll have to be patient in fishing this type of water, and we'll need to use some specific patterns to fool these fish.

First off, in all cases, beware of wading in water when you can't see your feet. If we don't see our feet, we also won't be seeing the bottom of the stream. At the least wear studded wading shoes, which really do help grip the bottom, and consider carrying a wading staff and staying near the banks or edges of streams. Wade first; then fish. Take one step at a time. Keep toes aimed into the current. Be sure one foot is completely secure on the bottom before moving the other foot. Keep your toes up and heels down. Feet should be at least shoulder width apart for balance. If fatigue hits, stop wading and take a rest.

Often, the wading situation will be solved because the water is flat out too high and terrifying to climb into. When this is the case, find a good area along a bank - there is a good chance that fish are hanging there anyway in order to escape the current - and fish along the bank or behind any sort of obstacle that stops current and will hold fish.

Fish slowly. When wading is tough, and covering the water is not really an option, fish deliberately, making good casts and presentations. Remember that the fly will be moving fast and the fish may not see it in time to eat; keep trying.

For the most part, in deep, fast water, we'll be fishing nymphs. The easiest color for trout to see in murky conditions is black. That seems counterintuitive to most anglers, but it is accurate. Use large, black fly patterns such as Prince Nymphs, black Copper Johns, Black Stonefly nymphs and black streamers such as Zonkers, Buggers and so on.

Get nymphs down to the bottom and keep them there. This is a time of year when the adage that good nymph anglers use one more piece of lead is true. If the fly is not getting hung up once every six casts or so, add weight!

Since we're going to use large nymphs - the streamers could be up to a size #2, and the nymphs at least a #12 or larger - black stones might be #4, for example, which is about the size of the bugs the fakes imitate - we should use 4X as the lightest tippet. Sometimes, when using the largest flies, even 1X tippet is a good idea.

Using large flies and more weight means some folks should wear pith helmets to protect their noggins from the projectiles attached to the cast. The tip here is to let the fly - or flies - and weight drift all the way to the end of the drift. Slowly lift the rod tip until the weight is at the surface of the water and the flies are dragging downstream of them. Then, while keeping the rod tip at about a 45-degree angle to the water, look at the target and begin raising your casting hand until it is above the bill of your cap. Then, slowly continue lifting the rod tip until it is at about the 2-o'clock position. Now, accelerate the rod forward, keeping the rod tip in one plane. You'll feel the flies leave the water as the rod tip bends. Stop the rod at 10-o'clock, and then clear the rod tip by slowly moving it all the way to near the water and allow the flies and weight to travel to the target spot. As soon as the flies hit the water lift the rod tip, get the fly line and leader under control and fish.

Wade first. Then cast. Then mend. Then fish. If the order is not followed there's a nice chance that we'll be swimming or not fishing, or completely tangled up in fly line and so on.

When water conditions are high the fish are likely to attack the fly, so takes should be apparent. Try fishing upstream and along banks. Us the rod tip to move the flies away from the bank - rather than keeping the rod tip parallel to your body and the bank, for example, try moving it so it is at a 45-degree angle to the bank; this will move the flies off the bank by about 4-5 feet, and that is usually a good spot for fish to hold, as long as there is cover to protect them from the current.

Use a net. Landing hooked fish in fast water can cause them severe damage as they continue to fight against the fly rod and the current. Lift the fish's head as soon as possible: when their head is up they are ready to land. Slip the net under the fish and gently cradle the fish in the net bag, keeping the fish in the water. Remember to wade into position first; bring the fish to you. Barbless flies hook best and are easiest to remove. When the fish is unhooked, and still in the net, move close the bank, find a spot with slack water and put the fish on the stream bottom with its head facing into the current. As long as the fish is in this position it will settle and revive. I hate seeing nice fish that were obviously hooked and mishandled during the release drifting past me, belly up, knowing the angler in charge wanted to release the fish and probably did not realize instead that the fish was killed.

When the water is a bit clearer - maybe we can see at least 18" into the water for example - trout will probably rise to dry flies along banks and in pockets. Use a short leader that tapers to 3X, and tie on a size #8 Stimulator or a #10 Royal Wulff, Coachman Trude, or Humpy and make short, accurate casts that hit the target and float for as long as possible. Even in high water, when the fly drifts slowly trout are likely to take the fly gently. Set the hook like the fish takes the fly: slow or fast. If they aren't eating the dry often enough, add a Prince Nymph, Copper John, Pheasant Tail or Feather Duster in a size #10-14 and hold on!

Fish soon. Fish often. Have fun.