Footing Basics for Your Arena

Jan Hoadley
The right footing in an arena can often be determined by the type of riding. Those with reining horses want a footing that allows those long pretty slides while a barrel horse for example sliding is *not* something that is desired. Jumpers may require a deeper more cushioned landing.

Some riders are happy to fence in an outdoor grassy area to call an arena while others have a sand mixture that is kept maintained. Several types of footing can be used and there are advantages and disadvantages to each.

Rubber footing is commonly shredded rubber pieces. It's meant to be incorporated into soil or other footing, not sitting on top of it. The latter results in a somewhat slick, heavy footing that is difficult to work with or on. When incorporated in it leaves some 'bounce' while the soil can hold moisture to develop a good surface.

Sand can be mixed in to other footings in arenas or sometimes in roundpens for stock type horses a deep sand footing can add muscle but this usually doesn't come with the serious warnings needed. Deep sand footing is effective for muscling a horse in 5-8 minute per session works. However some use deep sand for regular works of a half hour to an hour and this extended deep sand work can result in major leg issues. Sometimes these people can "never figure out" why the horse is having tendon issues or, worse, ties up (azoturia), a life threatening condition. However a few inches of sand worked in to other footing can help dry a 'wet' footing. This can also mean, for some arenas, a need to water the arena especially in the summer - a factor for water consumption for the barn. In short sand has a place but find where it is. It can be expensive and is difficult to get spread without large equipment but does make for a 'deluxe' riding experience if the right mix is maintained.

Old bedding mixed in to tilled soil is an option some have taken. It is cheap, makes use of recycling, and the bedding offers cushion as well as holding moisture. The disadvantage - as it breaks down it becomes dusty and part of the dust is broken down manure, which can get everywhere. This may not be as big of an issue for outdoor arenas, especially if you have large equipment to compost it every few years and start 'fresh'. My experience, though says think twice about using it for indoor arenas - it's a short term good idea that isn't as good long term.

Tilled "dirt" is another option many take for both indoor and outdoor arenas, simply tilling up the top 3-4 inches and using whatever is there, perhaps picking out the rocks in rocky areas. Rocks in an arena of any kind are unwelcome from a safety standpoint. Not only can it mean a foot or leg injury for your horse but a horseman's law somewhere surely states that no matter how large the arena if you come off a horse you will land on the one rock in the arena, meaning injury for you too. The biggest problem with most soils, especially clay, is it compacts and is hard to keep consistent. It can be too dry, too wet (with slick spots), too dusty or too hard. A mix of other materials can help.

Tanbark, shredded bark or 'hog fuel' - the latter a term in Washington state for the material that is inexpensive as a 'byproduct' of the logging industry. It provides decent cushion without a lot of 'shift'. The disadvantage is it can be hard to work with as it tangles around the forks or rakes. It's heavy, although if you have access to a small Bobcat loader it would make spreading it much easier, leaving just leveling smooth to hand work. It holds up well but does eventually break down which means replacing every few years. For basic riding of pleasure horses this can be an economical factor in some parts of the country.

These are just a few possibilities for arena and roundpen footings. An arena, indoor or outdoor, isn't cheap and a big part of this is the footing. However, a dry place to work when it's snowing or raining means a more consistent program training. The footing in a roundpen may be different from the arena due to the difference in use, but each place needs to decide what works best for you.

Published by Jan Hoadley

I'm a freelance writer with a specialty of farm, livestock, animals and small business topics. Occasionally cover music, particularly country, and photography.  View profile

  • The best footing is often a mix, and can vary with location.
  • Natural surfaces are preferred by many.
  • Use caution in the depth of sand for soundness and health issues.

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