Fort Bowie National Historic Site

The name conjures visions of cavalry riding out to protect settlers, miners and stage coaches in the heart of Apache territory. Established as Camp Bowie in 1862 at Apache Spring - one of the rare water sources in Arizona's arid desert - that was the distant outpost's precise mission. In 1879 the camp was elevated to fort status, shortly after Geronimo and other Chricahua Apaches escaped from the San Carlos Reservation and began a 10-year campaign of terror.

Fort Bowie was abandoned in 1894, eight years after Geronimo's surrender. Everything of use was stripped from the area shortly thereafter, but the crumbling ruins are protected as a National Historic Site today. Instead of rebuilding the fort, what was left has been preserved just the way it was, making it one of the most interesting ghost towns in southern Arizona.

No, you won't get to walk a boardwalk or gaze in windows. Instead you'll tread upon the same ground gallant soldiers stationed there did, instead of modern-day interpretations or refabrications. The ground hasn't been leveled, replanted or disturbed in virtually any way. The crumbling adobe walls, however, have been sealed to prevent further decay to ensure it doesn't decay any further.

As forts in the southwest go, Fort Bowie was a relatively luxurious posting. It started with a commander's quarters, which had two stories, seven bedrooms and enough furnishings that its first occupant complained that the house's ornamentation was a huge waste of money and time. Enlisted men probably didn't complain much about the beer hall-complete with billiards-a tailor shop and even a tennis court. Nearby there was a Butterfield Stage stop and an Indian trading post and their foundations can still be seen today.

The graveyard alone is worth the visit. If you take the time to read how many of the soldiers and settlers died, and how far away from home they were, it'll give you a good glimpse at just how rough life really was on the frontier.

There's no road to Fort Bowie, one of the reasons it's remained so well preserved for more than 100 years. It's an easy 1.5 mile hike from the parking area and although relatively few people visit, it's one of my favorite spots in southern Arizona. The short trip takes you past the stage stop, trading past, through the graveyard and finally to the fort.

Strategically located on the northeast foothills of the Chiricahua Mountains, soldiers here were tasked with protecting stages heading toward the next reliable water at the stage stop in Dos Cabezas. Mail carriers were also a target for Indian raids as well as wagon trains of settlers. The outpost may have been plush, but the horse soldiers stationed here risked their lives every day.

To get there take I-10 east from Tucson. Take the Bowie exit and follow the signs south. It's a little more than 100 miles from Tucson. The road turns to dirt for a short distance, but it's well maintained. The trailhead will be off to your left and there's plenty of parking-not too many people visit this historic, out-of-the-way site. If you continue along the dirt road you'll wind up near Dos Cabezas, yet another of Arizona's historic ghost towns, well off the tourist trail.

Visit in Fall or Spring to avoid the summertime heat. Take plenty of water and pack a lunch. You'll be glad you did.