Franklin County: A Forgotten Part of Florida

In a recent drive through Florida, my wife and I stumbled into a wonderful little area on the coastal highway US 98 seemingly lost in time and still the Florida of the 'old days'. Tucked into the eastern end of the Florida 'panhandle' and about 80 miles southwest of Tallahasse, Franklin County and its coastal communities of Apalachicola, Eastpoint, Carrabelle, St. George Island, and St. Vincent Island have gloriously avoided the glitzy, crowded, 'high rise' development so common along most of Florida's coastline.

Apalachicola was founded in 1831and soon became the third largest seaport on the Gulf of Mexico, receiving the South's cotton from steamboats working the Apalachicola River and shipping it to mills around the world. By the 1880s, large lumber mills just upriver from the town were preparing cypress for shipment by ship and rail and commercial fishermen were reaping seafood and oysters from the Gulf. Apalachicola was booming and those who benefited most built many of the grand homes which today still line the town's tree lined streets. Some things are constant, though. Franklin County accounts today for almost 90% of Florida's oysters harvest and 10% of the nation's supply!

We began our visit with a stop in Franklin County at Apalachicola's very helpful Information Center (www.Apalachicolabay.org) where we obtained walking maps and suggestions throughout the county for sights to see, dining, and lodging. Apalachicola's major business district is about four square blocks so it is easily strolled in a few hours. Nevertheless, this little district is home to several wonderful gift shops, art galleries, and antiques stores perfect for browsing ... and buying. Typical Florida souvenirs are available beside much more wonderful art and antiques remindful of the city's past and its links to the sea. Several restaurants of many types of cuisine are located throughout the business district but, not surprisingly, most seem intensely proud of their seafood and oysters. Lots of 'raw bars' so our choices were tough ones! Proof of the importance of seafood to Apalachicola - the Florida Seafood Festival is held here annually in the first week of November!

The city hall is in one of the two remaining granite and brick cotton warehouses built in 1837. Prior to its becoming city hall, the building was used as a fire station and jail. The Sponge Exchange was built in 1840 to store sponges brought from the depths of the sea. A few blocks away, Trinity Episcopal Church was transported from White Plains, New York and assembled onsite in 1838, using wooden pegs. Opportunities to rent boats and canoes to cruise the Gulf of Mexico and/or Apalachicola River and its marshlands are located near the business district.

Lodging choices in Apalachicola were primarily small inns, cabins, and B&Bs, many of which were beachside. We didn't see a single 'chain' motel although one of the city's tourist brochures stated there is a Best Western motel somewhere on the main highway into the city. The small inns and B&Bs we saw in or near the business district were quaint, brightly colored buildings at least 80-100 years old, e.g., the Gibson Inn (www.Gibsoninn.com) was built in 1907 and the Bryant House B&B (www.Bryanthouse.com) was built in 1915.

Beyond Apalachicola, Eastpoint is the heart of the county's commercial seafood industry. The late afternoon is a great time to visit this working town to watch the oyster boats returning to their docks and to watch the shrimp boats as they prepare to go out. Camp Gordon Johnston, opened in 1942, was a WWII amphibious training base and is today home to a 2500 square foot museum in a former post movie theater built in 1943. The museum in downtown Carrabelle holds histories of the several Army divisions which trained on the camp's beaches and descriptions of the lives of everyday soldiers.

St. George Island is a barrier island 28 miles long and accessed by a bridge from Eastpoint onto the middle of the island. St. George clearly has some of the best and most pristine beaches in Florida! In fact, the 9 most eastern miles of the island are completely undeveloped and comprise the St. George Island State Park. The park has hiking trails, boardwalks, and observation platforms and lucky visitors often encounter flocks of migratory birds in the islands salt marshes or, perhaps, they'll see dolphins just off shore. Power- and sailboats are available for rent for fishing or fishermen can try their luck from the beach, bay, or bridge!

St. Vincent Island is a federally owned National Wildlife Refuge barrier island located just offshore from the mouth of Apalachicola Bay and is accessible only by boat. It is home to deer, bald eagles, and loggerhead sea turtles and many migratory birds pass through. The refuge's headquarters and information center are located in Apalachicola, a few blocks from the business district.

I urge readers to consider this part of Florida when the high rises along most of Florida's coasts become just too much!