French Brandy: An Introduction to Armagnac

Matt Whisman
Located further south than its well known rival called Cognac, the region of Armagnac, France, has been producing fine French brandy for centuries. Named for the region in which it is produced, the elegant spirit known as Armagnac consists of column-distilled white wine and spends a minimum of two years in oak barrels. The grapes typically used include Colombard, Folle Blanche, and Ugni Blanc varieties. After the alcohol absorbs some of the color, flavor, and texture of the wood, it is bottled to prevent further change and then is ready for sale and consumption.

Unlike most fine brandies, it is better to serve Armagnac in a champagne flute than in a brandy snifter. Sniff the spirit after pouring the "dram," or serving, then swirl the liquid around in the glassware and smell again. The nose, or smell, of the brandy is an aromatic wonder in itself, typically presenting a varied bouquet of scents. These range from chocolate and pepper to toffee or vanilla. Others include hints of apple, caramel, cinnamon, liquorice, plum, and roses.

When tasting the brandy, sip no more than a teaspoon at a time; swish the spirit around the mouth, noting particular flavors and textures of the liquid. Some of the more popular flavors noted in many Armagnacs include citrus, and gingerbread. It should be noted that older Armagnacs have less of a harsh alcoholic "bite" than younger spirits.

A few of the major Armagnac producers include Chateau Laballe, and Domaine de Bordeneuve; the latter distills Chateau de Bordeneuve and Baron de Sigognac, two commercial brands. When purchasing, keep in mind the age of the spirit, and realize that with age the price and quality of the liquor will increase. VS (Very Special) spirits have been aged in oak barrels for at least two years, VSOP (Very Superior Old Pale) spirits for sixty months, and XO (Extra Old) spirits for a minimum of six years. Those aged for over one decade are known as Hors D'age. All Armagnacs may be referred to as "eau-de-vie," which means "water of life" and is an expression not far removed from the Latin term "aqua vitae."

In the near future, purchase a bottle of fine Armagnac and sample the elegant spirit within; a sip from the champagne glassful may bring to mind even on the coldest nights pleasant images of French royalty, rolling vineyards, and bright blue skies on the Riviera.

Published by Matt Whisman

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