General Categories of Nitrogen
There are two general categories of fertilizer nitrogen-organic and inorganic. An example of a commonly used organic compound is urea, H2N-(CO)-NH2. For urea, the nitrogen must be broken down by bacteria in the soil to become useful, since urea is not ionic-the form actually used by plants.
Two examples of inorganic nitrogen are ammonium sulfate, (NH4)2SO4, and sodium nitrate, NaNO3. These are ionic. Ammonium sulfate breaks into its component parts in water, the ammonium ion, NH4+ (two of those) and the sulfate ion, SO4-2. Sodium nitrate breaks apart in water to form a sodium ion, Na+, and a nitrate ion, NO3-.
Inorganic Ionic Nitrogen
We see in the above three examples, the three basic forms of nitrogen. The non-ionic, the positive ionic (cationic) NH4+, and the negative ionic (anionic) NO3-. This might not seem important, but it is. For example, the cationic ammonium ion can interfere with the uptake of cationic calcium, Ca+2, which is essential for the avoidance of blossom end rot in tomatoes. Hence, if the soil is borderline low on calcium, it would be wise to use a form of nitrogen other than cationic ammonium.
So is it wiser to use anionic nitrogen? Often, yes-nitrates absorb readily in water, and are in highly usable form by plants. On the other hand, if the soil packs tightly, oxygen availability within the soil may be severely limited, and bacteria present may strip nitrate of its oxygen atoms, converting the nitrogen to a gaseous form unavailable to the plants-escaping instead to the atmosphere.
Organic Non-Ionic Nitrogen
So then, switch to urea? If the urea is spread and it doesn't rain for some length of time, volatilization occurs, and nitrogen is lost. Since farmers at times place a "residue" atop the surface of the soil before applying fertilizer, absorption into the soil may be somewhat difficult. The residue may contain corncobs or other materials. It may be advisable to fertilize beneath the residue layer. Also, high temperatures and increased pH lead to greater volatilization (Urea should not be used on soil that has just been treated with lime). When appropriate, urea should be applied beneath the residue. If it can be quickly absorbed into the soil, urea is often the superior choice, especially in view of its high nitrogen content.
Efficacy and Cost
To assure success, some household fertilizer brands blend two or more forms of nitrogen. Often the combination is urea plus nitrates. For farmers, weight of available nitrogen per dollar spent is very important. However, cost and efficacy need to be viewed through the light of the advantages and disadvantages discussed above.
References and Resources:
Ohio State University Extension - Selecting Forms of Nitrogen Fertilizer
University of Minnesota Extension - Fertilizer Urea
Published by Vincent Summers
My secular expertise includes 23 years of experience at the National Radio Astronomy Observatory, with a share in NASA's extended Voyager 2 effort. I formerly wrote for Demand Studios, Bukisa, Suite 101, Exa... View profile
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11 Comments
Post a CommentChoosing fertilizer has always been a guess. This is very helpful!
Great info, Thankyou :)
I didn't realize there were so many choices in the Nitrogen fertilizer arena!
I'll stick with my compost! :o)
Great info, Vince.
Good advice!
Straightforward, easy to understand, and helpful. Good job.
thanks! I'm afraid I am one of those gardeners that just looks on the bag to get what I think my ground needs. So far so good.
Thanks, Vincent!
A great guide.