Gardening Tips on Cicada Damage, Busy Bagworms, Crabgrass Problems and More

The damage is obvious. Several homeowners have reported that 10 to 15 inches of terminal growth on many twigs of shade trees is dying and falling from these trees. This is the natural result of cicada damage which occurred earlier this year. These insects made linear slits within the twigs for egg deposit. Consequently, these slits interfered with water and food transfer within the twigs to such an extent that these twigs turned brown, have died and are falling from the trees. Trees will repair themselves and be ready for new growth next spring unless damage was significant enough to contribute to the further decline of an old or weakened tree, which may continue to decline and die.

Busy Bagworms

Don't let the worms demolish your shrubs. One spray application of malathion or carbaryl should provide adequate control, with perhaps a second application in two weeks. Thorough wetting of foliage is imperative. If you are concerned with loxicity (potential poisoning to humans) of pesticide products, use a biological (safe) material such as Bacillus Thuringiensis (also sold as Dipelor Thuricide).

In the Clover

White Dutch clover in your lawn? This weed can become a creeping vine and attract insects, particularly bees. One application of a broadleaf weed killer containing Mecoprop (MCPP) or Dicamba should give control.

Products can be purchased separately but most general lawn herbicides contain one, if not both, of the mentioned products. Caution: Use of Dicamba too close to certain shrubs, particularly yews, can cause disaster to your ornamentals. Read the label carefully.

Crabgrass Problems

Crabgrass in your lawn? A nice, wet spring makes an ideal environment for this dreaded culprit. Hopefully you used a pre-emerge crabgrass herbicide in very early spring. If not, too bad! Crabgrass can choke out even the best stands of bluegrass or fescue in a few years. To control, spray with one of the Arsonate herbicides, DSMA or MSMA.

Pruning Trees

Most pruning of larger tree branches should be done in very early spring or late fall, when trees are dormant. Wounds left by pruning are often hard on a tree and can lead to severe "bleeding" of sap if pruning is done in

midsummer. However, accidental wounding due to limb breakage by winds, lawnmower girdling of bark, etc., does occur during the summer. How should these wounds be cared for? According to the latest research, university studies show that application of wound paint or tree dressing make the homeowner feel better but actually does little for the tree.

Such coatings may even create a "humidity chamber effect" and cause ideal conditions for growth of harmful wood decay, fungi and canker diseases. Such cosmetic materials do not stop decay. Instead, use your knife and remove scurfy bark to provide a smooth cut. Then let the healing effects of air and sunlight seal the tree as best they can.

Fine Gardening, Accessible Gardening: Tips & Techniques, by Joan Woy.