Getting the Right Measurement for Installation of Laminate Flooring

One of the upcoming types of flooring that is gaining a lot of popularity is the laminate flooring. The main thing that disturbs many is how the measurements are done for the flooring. This is why this information is being provided to you who may want to go about this.

How to start: As you begin, it would be important to know the amount of laminate flooring that one would need. These measurements can be got very simply: just measure the length and the width of the room that has to be covered with this type of flooring. Make sure that you note these measurements for each room that will have the laminate flooring. It is advisable to add about 10% for each room to avoid disappointments e.g.

(Length=10ft)x(width=10ft) = 100sf +10% =110sf

After this, one needs to know the number of packs that would be needed. For example, if the type of flooring that you want needs 15 packs, then the room size should be divided by this number to know the number of packs needed. Using out previous example, it would be 110/15 = 7.3 approx. 8. This is the same calculation that would be used for the underlaying.

In case the flooring is being done on concrete floor, then Damp Proof Membrane would be needed, which are now available in under-lays that come with the flooring.

Doorways have transitional profiles that come in the form of:

T Moulding - Used in places where a laminate meets another laminate. It can also be used when a hard surface is about the same height as the laminate.

End Cap - used in the areas where doorways meet ceramic or stone tile and also the carpet. It can also be used in places where there is a sliding glass door.

Reducer - used when there is a height difference between the normal floor covering and the laminate flooring.

The Finish

When laminate flooring, there is an expansion space that has to be left of about 10mm where the floor meets the wall. This can be hidden in 2 ways: replacing the skirting boards with new ones over the expansion gaps and covering the expansion gap with beading (cheaper and much faster).

Measurements for this can be found by getting the perimeter of the room that would need the beading. As usual, add the 10% discussed earlier.

Summary what you need to remember is to get the length and width of the room, get the area, add 10%, do the same for the underlay, choose the best transitional profile for the doorway and get the best finish on the perimeter of the room.