Ghosts of Old Arizona

Mexico is little more than a breath away. The Old West still lives in this part of the US, its flavor seared into the arroyos and rough dirt thoroughfares woven through undulating and brush-covered hills. Turquoise skies are the norm for most of the year, but when the summer monsoons arrive, they bring pounding sheets of rain and the loud grumble of thunder.

Here in the rural southwest the term "ghost town" carries as much a whisper of the supernatural as the implication of an abandoned metropolis. There are real ghost towns here - some the skeletal remains of what were once homes and businesses, others little more than the faint markings of what were once foundations. But there are plenty of inhabitants who are very much alive, too.

Cochise County is situated at the southeastern portion of the state, wedged into the corner between Old and New Mexico. The county is home to several small towns (active and in the "ghost" category,) a labyrinth of caves known as Kartchner Caverns, and a rich tapestry of untold history.

One of the most famous locales in the county is the legendary town of Tombstone, one of three regional municipalities designated as a national historic site.

If you're driving to Tombstone, take I-10 to the 303 exit at Benson. Stay to the right as you drive through Benson until the road branches. For Tombstone, take the fork to the right and stay on the highway another 22 miles. (The return trip will require you to pass through a Border Patrol checkpoint just north of Tombstone, a reminder of just how close you are to Mexico.)

Tombstone's main drag, Allen Street, is a dirt road, its sidewalks shaded by store verandas and its surface formed by strips of wood. Among the historic buildings, the old Bird Cage Theater still sports bullet holes that date back to the days of Wyatt Earp and Bill Clanton. A fire destroyed a lot of the older structures a few years back, but there were still plenty that survived. Others have been rebuilt to replicate the originals.

More than one local will tell you that there are more hauntings per square inch than anywhere else in the world. If the local accounts are to be believed, nearly every structure (and a few streets) is home to a wayward ghost or two. At one old Victorian Mansion on north 3rd Street, this writer has encountered some firsthand evidence thereof - mostly in the form of furniture moving upstairs in the middle of the night, when no one was there to move it. The owner explains that at least one child, a little girl, has died in the house. Whether the ghost is that girl or one of the other former residents, who knows?

The clapboard house was once a bed and breakfast called the Wild Rose Inn. While it's currently a private residence, owner Ellen Hall is sometimes amenable to a tour. A metal plaque by the front door proclaims that the structure was built a century ago, and is on the National Historic Register.

Even the odd modern name gets in on the act. The Best Western Lookout Lodge Hotel in Tombstone has a reputation for its ghosts. The most frequent manifestation, according to front desk manager Autumn LaFollette, is an icy chill that nestles up against you, typically on your right side. Occasionally, a streak of black will announce the presence of the resident ghost dog, perhaps the most unique of Tombstone's spectral denizens. LaFollette says all in all, she figures there are four guests at the motel who aren't among the living: a man, a woman, a dog and a cat.

The black cat, by the way, was also spotted by a young girl, who wondered aloud why there was a cat in the restaurant kitchen!

Ghosts don't hold exclusive rights on the town. On any given day, you can amble along Allen Street and see locals decked out in 1880's-style attire. Cowboys in Tombstone truly do tie their horses at the hitching post while they go in to wet an Arizona-parched whistle. Big Nose Kate's is a favorite local watering hole. Its stained-glass windows pay homage to the woman for whom it was named, the now-long-departed girlfriend of Doc Holliday. Live music is the standard at Big Nose Kate's bar and grill, and during daylight hours you can take a spiral staircase down into The Shaft, a kitschy store carrying men's period wear, unisex tee shirts, accessories, unique flasks and more. Business owners say somewhere inside The Shaft is the entrance to an original mine tunnel, one of several that reportedly honeycomb the Tombstone area.

Four consecutive blocks of Allen Street are designated historic, and as such are closed to motorized traffic. (Numbered cross streets permit visitor access.) Allen Street is flanked by a potpourri of restaurants, bars, art and souvenir shops, and frequently hosts reenactments, parades and other special events. Big Nose Kate's Saloon and the Bird Cage Theater are located on Allen Street. The courthouse, which is also a historic monument, lies one block to the south, on Toughnut.

It's not your imagination. For the size of the community, Tombstone, Arizona, has a whole lot of well-preserved history.

Surrounding Tombstone are some other notable visitor destinations. Some sixteen miles to the southwest lies the city of Sierra Vista, a relative newcomer to region. From Highway 80 in Tombstone, take 3rd Street one block south to Allen and turn right. Two blocks later, you'll see the sign with an arrow pointing you to the Sierra Vista turnoff. Charleston Road connects the two communities. Named for the (now defunct) town of Charleston, the remote road is well paved and affords drivers a magnificent view of the surrounding mountains. It winds around several curves and crosses the San Pedro River near the midpoint between the two communities. Just be aware that the speed limit drops back to 35mph in the area of the river. The area surrounding the San Pedro is itself a nationally designated riparian preserve.

The San Pedro once was a much larger waterway than it is today. While it is one of Arizona's few undimmed waterways, a one-two punch of man-made wells and natural phenomena have reduced its levels over the past century. Legends say that Apache Chief Geronimo once cursed the river and promised that the white man wouldn't benefit from its waters. A powerful earthquake supposedly followed his curse, fracturing the riverbed and all but eliminating surface water. Whatever its cause, Arizona scientists worry that the year-round stream may soon fade to intermittent status, impacting the habitats of birds and other native flora and fauna.

Past the San Pedro another eight miles or so, Sierra Vista, founded in the 1950's, hugs the Huachuca Mountains and Fort Huachuca, and offers modern amenities to the weary traveler. Visitors can find most chain stores and restaurants in the city of 40,000, with plenty of new construction to emphasize just how quickly the population is still growing.

The southernmost tip of Sierra Vista sits only a couple of miles north of the Mexican Border. There's not an official border crossing at or in the immediate region of Sierra Vista. If you've got a hankering to visit Old Mexico, the border threshholds at Naco (to the east) and Nogales (to the west) are within easy driving distance.

Adjacent to the city is Fort Huachuca. There's a historic museum on location. Keep in mind that the Fort is an active military installation, which means periodic closures and restrictions. There's no charge to visit the museum. Donations are always welcome. For more information, write the Museum Director, U.S. Army Garrison, ATTN: ATZS-TDO-M, Fort Huachuca, Arizona 85613-6000, or call (520) 533-5736.

At the southern end of Sierra Vista, Highway 90 turns eastward. On this stretch of highway, the mountains of Sonora, Mexico rise in elongated ridges to the south, while the Dragoons etch a sharper vermilion line against the northern horizon. The road parallels the Mexican border, so the Border Patrol is a notable presence along the highway, their green-and-white vans and cars sitting or driving every few miles.

Stay on the highway for about 20 miles and you'll begin an ascent into the Mule Mountains and the old mining town of Bisbee, now largely renovated and a cultural and spiritual center for the fine arts.

Bisbee is nestled against steep hillsides, a crazy-quilt of adobe, clapboard and brick interspersed with meandering streets. In the historic part of town, there is no such thing as a straight road, nor a level one. The exit into Historic Bisbee from Highway 80 winds back under the road, the overpass framing picturesque turn-of-the-century facades. If it weren't for the modern pavement materials and the presence of cars and trucks, one could almost think time stood still in this tiny burg.

Did you notice a paved and very narrow driveway winding up a hill to one side or another? It probably wasn't a driveway at all, but one of many streets barely wide enough for a single car to navigate. Parking is a real challenge, because this 1880's community predates motorized travel and there's almost never a day in which visitors don't line the streets.

If you manage to find Bisbee, there are some "must-see" spots that define the town. One is the old historic district and notably the Copper Queen Hotel. Rising four stories above the floor of the valley, the Copper Queen is a dominant spot on the landscape. Like many structures in Tombstone, Bisbee claims its share of ghosts, and the Copper Queen is believed home to three or four, depending on who you ask. Even if you don't believe in ghosts, the Copper Queen is worth a look for its architectural values, which appear in graceful exterior lines, a sweeping dark-wood staircase inside the lobby area, and soaring ceilings throughout.

Other Bisbee attractions include the Shady Dell RV Park and Dot's Diner. Neither sounds particularly interesting until you take a look and realize that you've fast-forwarded half a century from the rest of the community. The circa-1950's Airstream trailers and the tiny Dot's Diner evoke a simpler time. If you're driving through town on Highway 80, you'll eventually reach a roundabout and several branching roadways. The roads are clearly marked, or it would be all too easy to become lost. If you're headed east on Highway 80 from the historic district, follow the loop around until the last street before heading right back into town. About half a block down the road on your left, you'll see Shady Dell and next door, Dot's. It should be noted that Dot's Diner doesn't have a single table or booth. They do boast ten vinyl-topped barstools, lots of chrome, and just enough room to sit down and enjoy your meal.

The menu is necessarily limited. They feature old-fashioned burgers and French fries, a variety of homemade pies and shakes made with real ice cream. This writer's companion added that their coffee is excellent, as well. At one time the diner served homemade cinnamon rolls. While the baked goods are no longer offered as a regular menu item, at one visit the cook volunteered to make a special batch, if requested!

Perhaps the most prominent feature of Bisbee's landscape is the aptly-named Lavender Pit. Bisbee's mining past is marked by a vast man-made canyon carved out of the mountain. Steep terraced sides display hues of beige, russet, and in the right light, lavender. While there's a pullout next to the pit, the angle isn't conducive to good photography. Mine tours are available, offering visitors a wholly different perspective.

Tombstone and Sierra Vista rise over 4500 feet in elevation, and Bisbee averages over 5300 feet. At those altitudes, snow and ice are often present during winter months. During the summer, the temperatures can be a comfortable 10-15 degrees (or more) lower than the stifling heat of Phoenix and Tucson.

Travelers should also consider the difference in elevation when walking through any of the areas, particularly Bisbee. The inclines in the historic district of Bisbee are accessible by foot. Much of downtown Bisbee is not wheelchair friendly, as many of the sidewalks include steps to accommodate the rise and fall of the landscape.

Reservations may be required for many attractions, particularly on holiday weekends, and may involve nominal fees.