Giordano Bros in San Francisco, California: Restaurant Review

Primanti Bros is a famous local sandwich chain in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, known for making huge gut-busting deli sandwiches and burgers with sometimes unorthodox combinations of ingredients. They rose to national attention during the Steelers 2006 Super Bowl run, when they crafted the "Roethlisburger" to celebrate new star quarterback Ben Roethlisberger - actually not so much a hamburger as a one-pound submarine sandwich consisting of ground beef, scrambled eggs, sausage, cheese, shredded lettuce, tomato and grilled onions on a Portuguese roll.

Giordano Bros. in North Beach emulates that sandwich style, along with providing a bar and a place for Pittsburgh sports fans to gather on key game days. The place is nearly always pretty crowded, since it is at what is probably the most touristy intersection of the city (Broadway and Columbus), and any location here draws a fair share of tourists, especially during the summer. The best time to check it out (if you aren't from Pittsburgh) is the between lunch and dinner hours (1 p.m. to 6 p.m.) on a weekday during the off-season months of November to May, and on days when there isn't a Steelers or Penguins game (they don't draw much of a crowd for the perpetually limping Pirates.) Usually at these times there's a bunch of open seats and not that much of a wait for food.

The signature of most of the sandwiches is very thick bread with coleslaw and french fries added on with the usual condiments and toppings. That may sound a little strange but it actually complements most meat-based sandwiches pretty well and gives them a unique flavor. Prices range from about six to eight bucks, a buck or two higher than what the real Primanti's charges, but not too bad considering this is San Francisco and a comparably sized sandwich anywhere else in North Beach would probably be about ten bucks, and they wouldn't include the fries like this place does. It's a pretty good deal on the whole for this area.

This is definitely not the spot if you are watching your weight, have high blood pressure or have a cholesterol problem, however. The cole slaw is made without mayo but that's about the only concession to healthy eating this place makes. Trying to pull a fast one like getting a turkey sandwich to "cut down on the bad stuff" doesn't work here, the blander meats like turkey get lost in the fries and slaw and make the sandwich an experience that will disappoint. Get you gut ready with some exercises and then get the Italian, Cappicola or Steak for the best possible sandwich experience here.

The only real problem here is parking. There's literally none nearby. If you live in the city it's no big deal, just take one of the numerous MUNI buses that pass through North Beach or hop the MUNI train and walk up from Market Street (probably good on the way back too, to help work off some of the meal you just ingested.) Visitors coming from the outside suburbs who want a piece of this giant sandwich goodness might think about jumping on the BART and leaving the vehicle behind ... that way you have an excuse to throw back some brews too!

Giordano Bros.
303 Columbus Ave.
San Francisco, CA 94133
# 415-397-BROS