Give Your Fish a Sporting Chance - Setting Up an Aquarium the Right Way

So you want to own a tropical freshwater fish. Chances are you've owned them before, a little fish in a bowl with some rocks at the bottom and a bright green plastic plant. You changed the water once a week because it got murky and "Bubbles" didn't look too pleased. A few flakes and you're set.

Let me tell you, this is the worst way to take care of a fish.

First, let's dive into the not-so-fun part. Getting the tank and supplies.

Getting Supplies

Here's a list right off the bat of things you're going to need:

A tank, at least 10 gallons, with a hood and light.
A power filter.
Chemicals for the water.
A tank heater.
Gravel.
Some kind of decoration.
A siphon for cleaning.
An algae scrubbing pad.

There are optional things that'll make the tank look nicer, such as a stand, air pumps and stones and really anything decorative you think your fish will "like".

This is a moderately costly investment, but if taken care of, can be kept for a very long time.

A tank stand is a good idea, because larger tanks will weigh a lot. These stands are made to hold that weight and not buckle. Imagine THAT mess...

*A handy thing to remember: Water weighs 8 pounds per gallon. For instance, 10 gallons of water is 80 pounds. Factor gravel in and you can figure just how heavy a tank can be.

Deciding on the tank size is both a personal preference (how much room have you got to spare?) and contingent on how many fish you'd like to keep. Most all tanks come with a hood (a cover for the tank, think jumping fish) and a light.

*Another tip that'll make deciding how many fish and what types (by size, in this case) you keep is this: Tropical Freshwater Fish (not goldfish, which will be covered in another article) require an "inch of fish per gallon of water". For instance, with a 20-gallon tank, roughly 20 inches of fish should be safe. Allow for growth and, well... personal space. While 20 fish in a 20-gallon tank wouldn't throw too much out of whack, it may still be a bit crowded.

An exception to this rule is hexagon/octagon tanks. An inch of fish per gallon of water is generally a surface area estimate, and so tanks which are taller and have less surface area should have less fish than a rectangular tank of comparable volume in gallons.

Finally, decide on glass or acrylic. Glass is cheaper and has seams. Acrylic is one piece and scratches can be removed (it isn't easy, but it is possible). There aren't really any other major differences.

One last thing before moving on from tanks you should know is that the greater the body of water, the less vulnerable to temperature and chemical changes it is. A 10-gallon tank risks a greater temperature flux as well an increase in toxic ammonia levels much faster than a 55-gallon tank would.

Once you've got your tank size and type picked out, you're going to need a filter. This is the main reason I avoid "starter kits" at all costs. They usually come with an undergravel filter, which is basically a porous plate that goes underneath the gravel with one or 2 tubes protruding out. Air stones on airline tubing are pushed down into these tubes and they are powered by an air pump. Undergravel filters have a tendency to "suck" uneaten food and waste into the gravel, where they contribute to increased ammonia, which is a big fish enemy.

Get a power filter. These hang on the back lip of the tank and only a tube and strainer hang into the tank. These pull water up, filter the water, and then the water spills back into the tank. I like the power filters with the "bio wheel" because these accordion like wheels collect good bacteria and the water is exposed to that each time it is filtered. You will want a power filter that can cycle your entire tank (in gallons) 3 to 5 times an hour. A little more won't hurt, of course. For a 10-gallon tank, you want a power filter than can cycle 30 to 50 gallons+ an hour. These power filters are rated this way.

Chemicals for the water are necessary for initial setup and maintenance. A good dechlorinator and a stress coat will help establish the water (make it healthy for fish) and the stress coat will make water changes easier on your fish. Stress coat is a sort of artificial version of the goo fish are naturally covered in that protects them.

A heater is also necessary, because tropical fish need warm water. Generally a temperature of 78 degrees Fahrenheit is acceptable for most fish. Temperatures over 85 degrees Fahrenheit can be a breeding ground for bacteria.

There are 2 types of aquarium heaters: Submersible and ones that clip on the lip of the tank just like the power filter. Both are acceptable and easy to use. Look for a heater that corresponds to the size of your tank. When filling the tank for the first time, do not turn the heater on for about 15 minutes, which gives it enough time to get accumulated to the temperature of the water. Turning it on right away could break it. Also, when removing water, unplug the heater and leave off until you've refilled the tank and allowed time for the heater to get used to the water temperature again. Splashing cool water on a dry heater that hasn't been turned off will cause it to shatter.

Get whatever you like for gravel. It comes in tons of colors and even sizes. Natural gravel is also available. I use about a half a pound of gravel per gallon of water, however if you'd like more, adding some will have no negative effects.

Get some nice plants, fake or live. Throw in some decorations, too, as the fish will hide behind them, play in them, etc.

While you're out buying all this stuff, you might as well buy the siphon and algae scrubber pad, too. There are hand siphons, which are pretty easy to use, and there are the siphons that hook up to a sink, which are really easy to use, but also cost quite a bit. Buy the algae scrubber that corresponds to the type of tank you have (glass or acrylic). There's no such thing as a free lunch, so while the magnetic algae scrubbers may look appealing, they will never remove that bright green algae. That requires some patience and a lot of elbow grease. Stick to algae scrubber pads or pads with long handles and prepare to scrub once in a while.

Setting Up

Set up your stand and tank. Move it right where you want it to be now because it is as light as it will ever be at this point. Put in your gravel, decorations and your aquarium heater. Assemble your power filter and put it in place. Don't plug anything in yet. Depending on the power filter you purchased, you may need to pour the activated carbon into the filter floss or it may be already assembled. Either way, once your filter's filter is together, rinse it under tape water to remove any carbon dust. Place the filter in the power filter. Fill up your tank. Pour in dechlorinator according to the directions on the bottle.

About 15 to 20 minutes after your tank is filled and with your filter and aquarium heater both in their correct spots, plug them both in.

Put the hood and light(s) on, if you haven't already and take a look at your lovely new tank. Your lovely empty tank.

A good measure is to run the tank just like this for a week. This will help to establish the water. Established water will mean a great chance of success when keeping your fish alive.

When it does come time to buy fish, you may want to only buy one or 2 inexpensive community fish. Wait until your tank is really up and running and then feel free to stock with other fish. From there, the sky is the limit.