When the other girls in my high school were listening to U2, I was listening to Depeche Mode, Throbbing Gristle, Front 242 and Ministry. I think that's a result of coming from an exceptionally musical and yet very turbulent family. My siblings were gifted musicians who all liked different styles of music ranging from what is now "Classic" rock to 70's pop (that one is all on my sister) and New Wave/ Alternative 80's pop. I'm not sure what mix of factors in my home life contributed to making me odd, but I always knew I was different. And as long as my grades were good, and I didn't get arrested, my parents pretty much let me be. My mom always said that because I am the youngest of many siblings, they were just too tired to care what I did as long as it didn't result in serious trouble. There were limits though... I distinctly remember some very anxious hours while my parents decided whether or not I was allowed to continue living in their house after I dyed my hair blue the first time at 16. Back then, dying your hair 'unnatural' colors was a subversive act.
No one likes to be judged on appearance, but the fact is that we do use visual cues to try and identify people who might share our ideas and beliefs. Back in the day, people like me used to hang out at local coffee shops and record stores, striking up conversations or at least giving the 'nod of solidarity' to anyone wearing black, Doc Martens, a motorcycle jacket, pink hair, a mohawk, or some other style which identified them as members of the subculture tribe. Back then, we were all constructing our own social identities from scratch, drawing from books, music, films and philosophies bits and pieces that we found compelling. We created a community for support, and hung out at goth/industrial/punk clubs all together, with minimal cliquishness and territory pissing contests. We all were in danger of getting harassed or beaten up when we walked down the street, but that bonded us. We were respectful when dealing with each other and helped each other.
Now though, the trappings of our cultural rebellion have been adopted and corrupted by advertising companies and retailers who figured out sometime in the mid 90's that there was a sizeable market out there of disenfranchised freaks, geeks and other outcasts who were now beginning careers and making money. Other cultural groups started appropriating our rebellion as well. Rap and Techno music videos sported women in fetish clothing. Thanks to Grunge, wearing Doc Martens became ubiquitous. Stores like Hot Topic sprang up, mass marketing "rebellion" to kids. Used to be when I saw someone wearing a CBGB's shirt, that person had either been there or knew someone who had been. Now, you can buy them at any mall. Ad companies are using The Clash and Blondie to sell cars.
I've heard the argument that all this mass marketing is a good thing, that it allows more people to really express themselves and live authentically but I disagree. I don't see how having the same t-shirt that 20,000 other people have makes you an individual. Mass marketed angst isn't authentic.
I was reading a collection of responses to the question "What is goth?" recently and one response really struck me. The respondent said that she had become a goth as "a response to being rejected by society." That stood out for me because choosing to be different from mainstream culture should be an authentic choice, a reflection of your attitudes and beliefs, not a reaction to mainstream society. I understand it can be difficult to find a way to live authentically in this kind of culture, especially these days. It can be kind of overwhelming to figure out who you are when all the things that used to influence us like family, neighborhood, religion, ethnicity, heritage etc have all broken down and melded together. But, just wearing black and forming your own little clique because the popular girls or boys won't let you play with them does not make you different. Stop mimicking them, stop mimicking us, and find your own path.
One night at a club I was chatting with an acquaintance who is the epitome of "cyber-industrial"in dress, musical tastes, cultural references etc but when I asked him if he was going to the Sisters of Mercy show the next month he looked confused and said he didn't really know who they were, so no. But he knew every band who had cropped up in the last two years who sounded exactly like them. And I was disturbed by that.This is music and art and philosophy that started, and continues to foster, a cultural revolution. Rivethead or Industrial culture and Cyber/Electro culture which grew from it, belongs to a very small group of subcultures that never were adopted into mainstream consciousness. In the mid 90's what had been Goth/Industrial culture split and became Goth and Industrial/Electro cultures. Industrial managed to stay off the societal radar, while Goth (pardon the pun) died. The death knell of any subculture is when a chain store in the mall starts selling subculture identity at a price any alienated teenager can afford. I blame Marilyn Manson, Hot Topic, and bad interpretations of romantic literature for that but the future of Goth culture was always questionable. How long can a subculture as over the top and drama heavy as Goth exist before it becomes a caricature of itself? If the late 80's/90's are anything to go by, about 5 years. It was all over when they franchised The Crow into what, 4 movies? When Goth poster child Robert Smith denies being Goth, it's all over kiddies.
What I find disturbing is that the ideas, the art, and the sense of community that we created is fading and a weak copy of the subculture we created is being adopted by people en masse who know nothing of the history behind it. . We were among the few groups in history to really exist happily outside the mainstream, and to create our own culture. We defied cultural norms and stereotypes, risked alienation and ridicule, forged new families among the kindred spirits we found drinking in dark dive bars or foraging through record bins in seedy record shops well off the beaten track. We carved a niche in society for ourselves, and then we watched while our lifestyles, interests, fashions, music and political statements were turned into mass-marked teenage angst.
I'm not advocating glorifying the past. Culture has changed, we need to change with it but that doesn't mean we have to abandon our authenticity and sell out. There are so many artists who are creating phenomenally interesting music and art for the new millennium, and that should definitely be explored. But you need to know the history of the culture to fully understand what comes next. In society today where education is being dumbed down to the simplest common denominator and special interest groups veto any discussion or exploration of anything 'unpleasant' or not 'politically correct' we are in real danger of losing perspective on the world. It's never been so important to critically examine the barrage of information we get on a daily basis and we've never had the kind of access to independent or non mainstream information, art, music, and culture as we have now. Our love of the non mainstream music, old and new, and commitment to live in a way that makes us happy even if it doesn't conform to traditional standards, remains but we can't forget the past, or we'll lose it.
Published by Goth Diva
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17 Comments
Post a Commentthe entire concept of punk ended when it became a matter of whether you shopped at aeropostale hollister etc. or if you shopped at hot topic. i personally shopped at hot topic because i never felt i was "cool" enough to wear clothes everybody else wore. once you start wearing clothes everyone else wears you present yourself as being just as if not more cool than those who asociate with that group or style. punk is not what you wear, and once it became about that, thats when it was over. people who dont judge each other based on appearances are the only punks left, even if they dont make themselves obnoxiously visible.
ok if you dont like our culture then let us be, we dont needto fit in
I loved the article but I think that people should just stop putting people into a catagory such as prep, goth, emo, punk. It's all silly. I couldnt stand when people called me Goth or Whatever.... just because I really enjoy the color black or really enjoy cooky styles. So what if I was or not. Why cant people just stop catagorizing people. Let people be who they are. Theres almost no such thing as originality because everyone is trying to be that. So don't try to be different because you want to get noticed. Be different because thats who you really are inside.
I actually, completely agree with you. Hot Topic has killed everything, and someday i would like to slap Marylin Manson and ask him what the HELL hes doing. This new Gothic industry so called, has completely ruined us all.
I didn't say you attacked me, my comment was generic and was based on ALL the responses I've received to this piece.
And we'll continue to disagree, which is fine. Everyone is entitled to their opinion. I just find it amusing that so many people need to attack anyone with a different viewpoint.
I think you and I have disagreed on this topic before. The appropriation by the masses of 'alternative' was inevitable, and although it's irritating like anything is at the mall, it doesn't mean anything more than Hot Topic clothes aren't alternative. But where does the appropriation begin? The commercially available hair dye you used to dye your hair blue in 1992 was a direct appropriation from the spray paint we used to use. I remember when the bright hair thing started thinking "here we go," just like you probably thought when hot topic came around with corsets. I guess my point isn't to argue, but just to say that the whole current alternative thing didn't start in the 90's, or even in the early 80's when I was a teen. It's evolved, but it doesn't mean there's nothing alternative now.
Thanks for the insight that you provided. I learned a lot about something I knew little of :)
(2) The truth is, every fashionable "movement" dies the same undignified death. Ever since James Dean, youth worldwide imitated the current cool, until it became passe. I had a friend when I was young, go from a spiky haired punk (1983) to an Axl Rose wannabe (1987) to a flannel-shirt wearin' grunge dude (1991), to hell know's what since I last saw him (probably has cornrows and says "shizzle" alot!). Anthrax did a cool song about it in 1993 called "Packaged Rebellion"; the name says it all! AWESOME ANALYSIS, BTW! I just came across yer stuff, and although we are a bit different, I really enjoyed reading your writing. Good nite & God bless!
(1) The theme of your story reminds me of Julian Temple's documentary on the Sex Pistols and the English Punk movement "The Filth and the Fury". English Punk was just a bunch of London street kids who invented their own fashion and music, and weren't afraid to call out the hypocrisy of society at large. Eventually, when the "hippness" of Punk Culture caught on, every English kid had the "mohican" (as Johnny Rotten called them) and the safety pins through the nose. Eventually, what started as rebellion just got re-absorbed into the "shit-stem"(Rotten's words again).