Growing a Beard: The History and Philosophies Behind the Current Trend
David Letterman and Conan O'Brien's Beards Might Mean More Than We Think
We only had to guess -- when seeing David Letterman and Conan O'Brien returning to host their respective late-night shows on January 2 after two months away due to the writers' strike -- that those two hosts grew odd-looking beards as a sign of protest in solidarity with their striking writers. But did they really do that in a symbolic gesture, or did they just grow them because they were off the air so long?
Both of them may have taken a band-aid-ready Schick razor to their respective beards by the time this article goes to press, but the loud annoyances from critics and fans alike at our favorite late-night hosts growing a beard shows that growing facial hair still has its share of controversy as it always has.
While people who peculiarly study beards are called Pogonologists ("Pogon" being Greek for "beard") -- let's see if we can find out why someone from presumably only the male species (except that lady in the circus) wants to grow a beard. In biblical times, growing a beard was a sign of profound respect for God by the Jews -- and Jesus wearing a beard (or we're pretty sure he had one) helped beards to continue prospering for the most part in early Christian circles. But the non-Christian cultures of the Ancient Egyptians, Greeks and Romans went strictly by trends as our modern society dictates.
Beards came and went all depending on a particular influential leader who popularized them. In the case of the Ancient Egyptians -- it was more an early form of a Beatnik-like goatee with one particular worry that made their carefully-groomed goatees disappear for a number of years. During that time, it was thought their little beards could be easily gripped as a face handle in the heat of battle -- hence giving the enemy the upper hand...literally.
It's nothing unusual for the military to make sure soldiers are clean-shaven. Even today, beards aren't really acceptable in the military -- especially during war and because the face needs to be clear for face gear of various kinds. Of course, we see pictures of our troops in Iraq wearing the usual week-old stubble when out in the field fighting as emblematic of the award-winning photos going back to World War I and II.
It's interesting to note, however, that World War I stopped a trend in facial hair that had been going on in America since the time of Lincoln who helped carve (no shaving gaff analogy intended) the role of beard popularity here in America for the first time. In the age of having to wear a gas mask -- all WWI soldiers were ordered to shave. When the modern electric razor began to be promoted not long after from a more compelling Madison Avenue -- shaving became the ultra chic thing to do for a man.
Now you can explain to those still uninitiated to 20th century history why everyone looked so clean-cut just prior to the wild revolution that took place in America of the 1960's and changed everything about the acceptability of facial hair that lasts to this day. It's also probably the singularly widest leap from being clean-cut (the 1920's, 30's, 40's, 50's and early 60's may be the greatest age in world history for slicked-down hair and baby cheek faces) to one of looking like they should be working as a spiritual leader in India. For those who lived through the 60's (I didn't) and still remember it and their Hippie Movement: Remember, a lot of your philosophies came from India and their mastery of beard-laden transcendental meditation.
The mysterious role of growing a beard in Hollywood...
Yes, you knew Hollywood has always been in its own little bubble. When it comes to actors working in movies -- growing beards has always been something they've had to do for a particular part they're playing. Even so, from the 1920's through the 1950's, actors would generally use glue-on fake beards so they wouldn't have to be seen at major media events sporting a real giant beard. Some people in the industry today might consider that blasphemous if you don't grow a real beard for a movie part -- and some current actors scoff at the notion actors from yesteryear weren't allowed to grow real ones. Outside of that common trend, though, it seems that other people who worked in Hollywood (i.e. directors and any other creative types not always seen in front of a camera) would have a trend of growing beards when on extended breaks.
Call that above scenario the life of an artist who made it a rite of passage to grow a beard at least once in their life during a time when they weren't going to be walking a red carpet somewhere for many a moon. Most biographies you'll read of any famous artist of the 20th century (directors, writers, painters, actors or what have you) -- have at least one photograph in the book showing them at some point with a beard that they kept only very briefly.
The only other exception would be someone like Howard Hughes who grew his own beards behind locked and closed doors because of his OCD problems (subsequently shaved off by his girlfriends and associates when he had to show up in public somewhere). In a lot of cases, though, the notion was that an artist would grow a beard at some point as a bit of a nod toward rebellion against the clean-cut system...and maybe secretly delighted in the Beatnik culture who started a prominent community in the areas of Southern California starting in the late 1950's.
A lot of people probably assume that the Beatnik culture in Hollywood (and around the country) was pretty much alienated from mainstream, clean-cut society. The truth is that they probably mingled fairly peacefully, and some in the clean-cut Hollywood community were occasionally known to hang out with them more often than people know. Many of the Beatniks were the first to start wearing beards (or actually goatees) in an age when they weren't really accepted -- plus becoming a group of people who didn't conform to many other rules expected of society then.
Because they were a part of the arts world -- that connection to other mainstream Hollywood artists who were supposed to shun them became an interesting one. It's probably no secret then that the same ones who related to the Beatniks became a part of the Hippie Movement later. All the others who had a little more conservative streak ended up eventually staying away from the changing streets of Hollywood or just moving away from the area. Yet, you'd see everybody in Hollywood wearing real beards at one time or another starting in the late 60's onward.
The beard as symbolism of rebellion...and not just during wartime...
Most people who lived through the Hippie Movement will probably admit that growing long hair and long beards was an initial form of protest against the U.S. government and its role in Vietnam. By the time of the 70's, though, just about everybody from the Baby Boom generation were wearing beards -- no matter what they thought of the war or our government. That didn't stop some people you wouldn't expect in the entertainment industry to wear a beard on TV or other event for no particular reason except that they were too lazy to shave. Numerous TV hosts who hosted a nightly talk show would sometimes show up after being on vacation with a beard (albeit briefly as it is today) -- only to get scorned by the public for not using the Norelco before going back on the air. Only the hippest in all the entertainment fields could get away with a steady beard in the 70's and not be considered looking ridiculous.
You saw a lot of that disappear by the 80's when a slicker grooming style emerged again -- albeit with Don Johnson stubble becoming popular for a lot of 80's males. The big, furry beard with long hair, however, was gone and only stuck around with the most die-hard former Hippie or hermits who managed to chuck society and live in the mountains. In the meantime, for those who studied beards -- it probably left a Pogonologist wondering how long it would be before we saw full beards return to American culture -- while witnessing Muslims in America unfortunately becoming the new emblem of making the longer and thicker beard something associated with evil madness.
The carefully-trimmed 21st century beard...um, I mean goatee...
When 2000 hit -- it seemed every style of male facial hair past returned and meshed into its own style. Sideburns started coming back (and still are with some as of this writing) -- and goatees started becoming ubiquitous. It hasn't been a short trend either. As of 2008, you still see close-cut beards and full goatees that connect from the chin to the upper lip area. Some say males did this to bring back a sense of masculinity in a time when the Metrosexual look became too ingrained into the male pop culture for those who, in reality, wouldn't be caught dead shopping in a male boutique. But you still had the oddball full beard that would show up in people you wouldn't expect. That adds to my theory that the 2000's in America have been an amalgam of just about everything from its fashion and grooming past.
After seeing David Letterman and Conan O'Brien growing two very strange-looking beards this month -- it gave me insight into how brave we've become and how acceptable we can make some things now. If Dave and Conan can wear beards showing solidarity for writers -- then it gives some indication we can bring the beard to a new level of understanding again so it doesn't get automatically equated with terrorists or the Flower Power generation. That all depends on the pop culture-carving critics, though, who still like to blast TV talk show hosts who suddenly show up sporting beards.
Expect to see the late-night host landscape go back to clean-shaven Metrosexuality across the board again -- while John Q. Public likely tries to copy Dave and Conan and give a new attempt to bring the thick beard back without being shunned or relegated to enjoying it during vacation time in the backwoods.
Published by Greg Brian - Featured Contributor in Arts & Entertainment
Prolific freelance writer celebrating five years writing online. He currently writes daily for Yahoo! Movies, plus recurring late-night TV and NBC show beats on Yahoo! TV. The author is also open to private... View profile
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9 Comments
Post a Commentnice work!!!
soul patch
I know this will not be well received but, any lady, I have known, has called it a "flavor saver". I heard that so much until it just became a "silent " name of sorts. Nope, they are not brackish women, this one has been an attorney for eleven years. Hey, ladies have wild sides too, with this beard thing.
I liked the article. I wear a beard (of sorts), and have done so now for five years after retiring from a career in the U.S. Army. I mention the Army because those I knew then who see me with a beard don't quite know what to do, they either say it looks great, or ask how long I am going to keep it. I have shaved it off two times, and inevitably the next day I ask myself why I did so. I have often wondered just why I do enjoy it - maybe it is a reach back to the Civil War appearance of soldiers, or just being me.
Anyway, interesting article, and best wishes to all. John. ;}
Does anyone remember what they called chin hair [just under the bottom lip ] in the 50's ? My husband said it was a snoobod, spelling not withstanding, & he grew one, but not for long, with my input!!
I lived through that 60s and 70s thing with/without beards. I drew a lot of flak from the more "rule conscious" tribal members when I grew a beard (blame that on my mother's Caucasian side of the family--my dad was full-blooded Mohawk). I got rid of it when I shaved my head (another round of tribal decision-making ensued since I was asked if I was stepping down to warrior ranking from being a chief) a couple of years ago, and was told by most people I look younger without the hair and beard.
Great article! Regarding Hollywood tales of facial hair - it reminds me of actor Jonathan Frakes who played Commander Riker on Star Trek: Next Generation. He was clean shaven for the first season - upon returning from hiatus with a beard because he was on vacation & hated shaving - the TNG producers liked the look & asked him to keep it. It's hard now to imagine the character without the beard. It gave the otherwise regimented Starfleet officer aura a slightly rebellious or at least unorthodox look.
I LOVE Conan and Letterman with beards...I will mourn the pasing of the facial hair.
un-hunh