Growing Tomatoes: Seed Starting

Starting tomatoes from seed gives you a jumpstart on the growing season and the opportunity to grow the cultivar you prefer without relying on the greenhouse for your seedlings. Greenhouses often provide healthy robust tomato plants, but your selection may be limited to the most common cultivars grown in your region. These typically produce well and thrive in your location, but if you want to try something different, your choices may be limited. Starting your own tomatoes from seeds allows you to select a variety of tomatoes for your home garden.

Consider the many varieties available. Take the time to browse seed catalogs and read the descriptions carefully. Look for tomatoes that match your region. Days to maturity is always a concern, as northern gardens, like mine, simply cannot produce tomatoes with long growing seasons. For the best flavor, tomatoes should have time to ripen on the vine. Look for specialty or heirloom tomatoes to add variety to your garden. The old standbys may produce reliably, but they do not provide variety.

Purchase commercial seed starter. One of the biggest mistakes gardeners make is trying to start tomato seeds in regular potting soil, or even worse garden soil. For seeds to germinate and seedlings to thrive, loose soil that drains quickly is necessary. Not only is the texture of commercial seed starter right for your tomatoes, it is sterilized and will not introduce disease. For healthy seedlings, start with healthy soil.

Pour seed starter into a large bowl or bucket and moisten with water. Stir to moisten all soil. Seed starter from the bag is often dry and difficult to work with. Once pots or trays are filled with dry starter, water may run off the top or soil may flow from the container when you attempt to water it. Start with damp seed starter and save yourself the hassles.

Plant tomato seeds in trays or flats 6 to 8 weeks before transplant time in your area. The easiest method is to use trays with individual plant cells. Although peat pots or pellets are certainly a choice, they often tip when moved and require more time to maintain. If you have young children or pets, individual pots are an invitation for disaster as they are easily knocked off a windowsill or plant stands destroying the plant.

Sow one seed per cell to a depth of ¼ inch and firm the soil down with your hands to remove air pockets. Mist with water to moisten the seeds and cove with clear plastic food wrap. Place the tray in a warm location. The top of a water heater or other appliance that provides gentle bottom heat is ideal.

Check daily for any signs of mold or mildew. Partially remove the plastic wrap to allow air circulation if excessive moisture becomes a problem. Remove plastic once seeds germinate. With bottom heat, tomatoes often germinate within 3 to 4 days but may take up to a week.

Move seedlings to a sunny location or place under plant lights. An old shop light suspended by chains makes an inexpensive plant light. Place seedlings 3 to 4 inches below the light and run for 16 to 18 hours a day. Adjust the height of the lights as seedlings grow. In some areas, growing seedlings in a southern window may provide enough light for healthy robust growth. Tall spindly plants indicate inadequate light.

Begin fertilizing with water-soluble fertilizer once seedlings are 3 to 4 inches high. Dilute the mixture to ¼ strength and use to water seedlings once a week. Keep soil moist, but not soggy. Tomato seedlings often require daily watering.

For tips and techniques growing and caring for tomatoes see my other articles.

Growing Tomatoes: Caring for Tomato Seedlings
Growing Tomatoes: Preparing the Soil

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