Growing Tulip Bulbs

Tulip instant popularity is easy to understand, as no other spring flowering bulb provides such a splash of brilliant colors. Because of their wide popularity, extensive breeding and selection of tulips has taken place for hundreds of years. Although a formal tulip classification exists, it is difficult to follow because of the mixed ancestry of many tulips. Therefore most gardeners select tulips for their color, height, and time of bloom than for their classification.

To some extent, however, the classification is a key to the time of bloom. As we shift from one class to another we can follow the entire season. Species tulips are the earliest, often starting in early to mid-March the colorful Kaufmanniana hybrids begin. These are followed by the brilliant Fosteriana hybrids.

One of the most popular tulips of all time, Red Emperor, belongs to this group. Fosteriana hybrids have long, large flowers on short stems, and are now available in white, orange, and yellow as well as red. As the species hybrids near their end, the single early class begins, closely followed by the double early group. These are sometimes called peony-flowered tulips.

Midseason classes, flowering early to mid-April, include the Darwin hybrids which envolved from crosses between the Darwin and Fosteriana types. Triumph tulips and Greigi hybrids also fill this season. By late April and early May the well-known Darwin, Cottage, and Breeder tulips come into bloom. Along with these are types that have evolved with novelty flower forms, and include the lily, parrot, Rembrandt , fringed, branch-flowering and viridiflora. The season is brought to a close by the large, showy late doubles.

Many display gardens use tulips for only one season, destroying the bulbs after bloom and using new bulbs the next year. While tulips are never disappointing in bloom, gardeners may sometimes be disappointed by the life of the bulbs, which may be only two to three years. To make the most of your tulip planting, remember that the bulbs must have perfect drainage. Poor drainage and extremely heavy soils will shorten their life.

Where internal soil drainage is poor, raised beds or mounds may be the only solution. Improve soils by adding liberal amounts of sand and organic matter. Tulips do not like extremely rich soils, however, and should not be exposed to high levels of nitrogen. High levels of phosphorous as supplied by bonemeal are more beneficial. Add about three to four pounds of bonemeal per 100 square feet of bed area. Never allow manure to come in contact with the bulbs when planting. Tulips require cold temperatures before they are able to flower. Therefore, bulbs must be planted in the fall so proper chilling can occur.

October or November planting is generally best. If they can not be planted in fall, they may be kept in plastic bags in a refrigerator, or other place where temperatures do not drop below freezing. However, this should be used as a last resort and not a general practice in our climate. In late spring and early summer, tulips prefer cool temperatures while the foliage is producing food for storage in the bulb after flowering. Therefore, to insure blooms next year, foliage should be kept growing vigorously as long as possible.

Locating plantings in beds with afternoon shade, and mulching the soil helps keep the tops and roots cool longer. After tulips lose foliage and go dormant, they should be kept dry. Therefore, they should not be placed in beds with plants that are watered heavily during the summer. If this is not possible, bulbs may be dug after the foliage has died and stored through the summer in a cool, dry place until time for fall planting.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tulip