Guanajuato Byways 1: Salvatierra, Acambaro, Santiago Maravatio - Head Southeast from Guanajuato City for History, Relaxation and the Chupicuaro Lady

I live in the city of Guanajuato, but several times a year, I "escape" to smaller towns. When I went adventuring in the southeast corner of the state, I didn't expect my mini-vacation to alert me to the state's most distinguished migrant, the Chupícuaro pottery figure now featured at the Louvre Museum in Paris.

I arrived in Salvatierra, set among fertile fields of wheat, broccoli, and carrots , the evening of a traveling concert by the Guanajuato Symphony. When I entered the historic church ten minutes before starting time, I stood there, dazzled by the newly restored golden altarpiece in front of me, and surprised to find nearly every seat full. Finally I found a pew that could hold an extra person. By the beginning of the concert featuring works by Beristain, Ponce and Tchaikovsky, close to a hundred people were standing in the side aisles.

Although I already knew about Chupícuaro pottery found near Acámbaro (a half-hour ride from Guanajuato) from seeing the pre=classic bowls adorned with geometric designs at the Alhondiga Museum, I didn't know about the famous lady 31 centimeters high, a hollow painted figure found in excellent condition during excavations for the Solis Presa. She now occupies the center space in the Louvre's gallery of art from the Americas, Africa and other parts of the world that produced art of high aesthetic value outside the European tradition.

You can see photos of this elaborately decorated Chupícuaro fertility and seasonal figure on the web.

How to get there: By bus, you can reach Salvatierra by connecting at Celaya, the whole trip taking about 3 ½ hours; by car, probably an hour less. Salvatierra was my hub for four days, with day trips to Acámbaro and Santiago Maravatio, where I went twice to swim in the thermal waters. Hundreds of people from cities like Morelia and Quereto go to enjoy the waters on weekends, but at At Los Piñitos, one of several swimming places near the town, only five of us were in the pools on a Wednesday. The owner and his employees, who were grilling bifstek, gave me a sample and a refresco besides engaging me in lively conversation.

In addition to its warm waters, Maravatio is notable for its high migration rate and the devotion of many who return in July or December to their home town. It has a plaza and old church, and a modern DIF building providing health services, named for Guanajuatense Faffie Siekman who arranged for its construction. The building includes the Biblioteca Diego Rivera where the librarian showed me a half dozen books by the well-known writer born in the state, Jorge Ibarguengoitia.

In Salvatierra itself, with its canal, old houses and ex-monasteries, I walked the busy sidewalks and each day ate largas (large filling tacos) in the historic Plazuela 2 de Abril. A plaque there honors Emiliano Zapata and a small monument commemorates Hidalgo's passage through the city. Down the road in Acambaro, 80,000 supporters rallied around Father Hidalgo the day he was named general-in=chief of the Americas.

Both Salvatierra and Acámbaro have a helpful tourist office in the historic center. In Santiago Maravatio, you'll need to find people to ask.