Guide to the Wine of Argentina: Future of Argentina's Fine Wine

Argentine Wine is Slowly Maturing

Steven Hoss
Argentina doesn't have to look far to be reminded of its tardiness in the wine market. Only 150 miles west of the fertile Mendoza region, where nearly half of Argentina's grapes are grown, lays Chile which is exporting some impressive wines. Chile is 10 years ahead of Argentina in terms of market penetration, according to Ricardo Sibbald, director of Argentina's Trapiche wines.

Despite its tumultuous politics and its smaller size, the Chilean government has given its wine industry more money. The Argentines will have a difficult time persuading us that their wines are better than some of Chile's best commercially exported wines. The closeness of the two countries is deceiving. The 150 miles between wine-growing regions is covered by the Andes mountains. It is highly possible that the Pacific breezes give Chile more favorable microclimates. Because Argentina, has only 10 days of rain a year, it depends on melting snow from the Andes for its water which is transported to the vineyards by government-run canals. Strong influences from the Italians can be found in such grapes as the nebbiolo and the barbera, but Argentine vintners are discovering new territory with the sauvignon blanc, merlot and cabernet sauvignon grapes. This is where Argentina's fine-wine future starts.

The Argentines are enduring many obstacles, one of which is a strange climate. But, as Sibbald said, They can't change what god has given them. The struggle continues. Until Argentina is able to convince retailers here to carry its wine consumers will find it difficult to find anything but the Aberdeen Angus and Cafayate wines which are rather mediocre. But if you're eager to experiment you have much to gain and little to lose by trying wine from Argentina. You won't be able to beat the price.

Here are several of the wines that this writer has recently tasted which are definitely worth trying. The strength of the dollar in Argentina brings the prices of these wines to under $10, well worth the experiment.

-Giol Canciller. This is without doubt the writer's favorite Argentine wine. Made from 85 percent cabernet sauvignon grapes and about 15 percent cabernet franc, it is a wonderfully fruity, lush wine in perfect harmony.

-Trapiche Medalia. A generic wine made from a blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and malbec from several different vintages. An amazing, unique wine with overtones of tar, anise and berry. This writer also loved Trapiche's cabernet sauvignon.

-1982 Flichman merlot. Good balance, soft but with good backbone A real breakthrough for Argentina.

Sources:

Chrabolowsky, Enrique and Michael Rolland Wines of Argentina 2006

Fielden, Christopher The Wines of Argentina, Chile, And Latin America (Classic Wine Library) 2003

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