Hama-Ko Sushi Restaurant in San Francisco, California

Straddling the boundary between Cole Valley and the southern Haight-Ashbury neighborhoods is an amazing little restaurant tucked into a storefront on Cole Street. Hama-Ko Sushi is the name, and if you love sushi, you'll love this place.

There were whispers of Hama-Ko, the unique restaurant where there's no signage indicating a business much less a restaurant, no name and no phone number listed. The neighborhood is aware of this little gem, but a casual pedestrian could easily walk by thinking Hama-Ko is the dining room in a private home. The lucky few who managed to garner a table were given the once-over by owner and chef Tetsuo Kashiyama before admittance. Supposedly, if the customer didn't pass the smell test (no pun intended) he would shoo you off the premises.

The gauntlet wasn't quite as rigorous when we tried it. The first attempt was made later in the evening, so of course, no table. It was with much sadness that we left, what with a combination of wonderful smells escaping out of the front door.

Be forewarned, this restaurant is but a tiny mite in a city where sushi restaurants abound. And when I say "tiny" I mean microscopic. There are only six tables available, and very limited seating in front of the chef. Hama-Ko takes reservations, or you can do as we did on the second attempt and come early on a weekday before the crowd settles in.

We were seated quickly, and given hot tea and menus. The sushi menu is small and varies with whatever fresh fish comes in from Japan that morning. Our server (Mrs. Kashiyama, I presume?) was personable and polite. Her command of English was adequate, but it helped enormously to have a Japanese speaker in our party.

Hama-Ko is the real deal, offering a selection of sushi and sashimi made from the highest grade fish, as well as a few rolls. Don't make the mistake of asking for a California roll, a dragon roll or any other Americanized sushi commonly found on the menus of other sushi restaurants. The chef doesn't do wacked out crazy rolls, and he doesn't do cream cheese (a definite pet peeve of mine) either. We decided on the Omakase (Chef's Choice), which comes with miso soup.

The sushi arrived with minimal waiting, artistically arranged, and was definitely the best sushi I've ever had. The fish was velvety, clear, and best of all, not fishy. Fishy fish means the cut is way past its expiration date. I was especially taken by the scallop. I've had it in other restaurants and could barely choke it down.

At the end of the meal, we were treated to moochi, small bean cakes. I've had the frozen ones and was never a fan, but I'd go back to Hama-Ko just for dessert.

One word of caution; it is suggested that potential diners be on their best behavior. With seating so limited, one doesn't want to leave a bad lasting impression. A visit to the Hama-Ko is like being invited into a cozy, Japanese kitchen. You'll want to turn off your cell phones and wait to party until you're in a club. Make all of your choices at the beginning of the evening and for goodness sakes, be respectful!

Parking is tight in the busy neighborhood, so you may have to park blocks away. However, Hama-Ko is right on the N-Judah line, for those who prefer to take public transportation. Beer and wine are served, but drink responsibly.

The consensus is people either love the place because of the quality of the sushi, or they hate the place because of the limited menu and the sometimes gruff owners. Me, I love it, and I'd gladly go back again.

Hama-Ko
108-B Carl St. off Stanyan
San Francisco, CA 94117
415-753-6808