Hawaii: A Personal Journal

Now who does not want, at least once in a lifetime, to visit Hawaii, that veritable paradise on earth? This 50th state of USA is the remotest populated spot on earth. More than 2000 Km in any direction, there is no landmass, but the blue Pacific all around. It is an archipelago of 123 volcanic islands and the next island is under formation under the sea, and from a safe distance in a submarine, one can see red hot lava spewing out from the ocean bed. Only seven of these islands are populated. Being far away from any where, 90% of its flora and fauna is not found anywhere else in the world. Remaining 10% is mainly from India - the Indian Mynas and the Banyan trees. How they got to this remote (can't say, God forsaken) place is the stuff of another article. For same reason, there are no predators in Hawaii, and no snakes. So adventure in its rain forests is very safe. Most serious problem on such trips is the very real danger of dehydration, thanks to the equatorial sun shining relentlessly. Nowhere else in the world, can one see on just one island, such geological and geographical contrasts, as on its Big Island. If one looks out from the plane, before landing at Hilo, you can see in one go rain forests and a thousand waterfalls; two ice-capped mountains (geologically higher than Everest!); Kilauea volcano spewing out sulphur smoke, steam and red hot lava, all round the year strictly on 24x7 basis; This volcano is sandwiched between rain forests and a desert formed by the sulphur fumes, blown by the trade winds and singeing all vegetation on the leeward side. Then of course, there are the famed beaches, swaying palms and swaying Hula dancers, accompanied by the strumming of the Hawaiian ukulele.

When one is in such an away-from-it-all heaven, one misses one's dear ones and develops that 'wish you were here' syndrome. Next best is to report all that you see and experience. So I was sending e-mails, whenever it was possible. Consequently, this is not a professional travelogue, but a journal of unedited e-mails I sent:

#1 We arrived in Honolulu absolutely fresh and in good cheer, in spite of the 24-hour long haul. The 5-hour break at Seoul was a godsend. Thanks to Korean Air, we were well taken care of at the Executive Club, with slumber rooms, showers, internet cafes, a whole spread of goodies and drinks.
One is stunned by the beauty of this place. Till now I have not been able to formulate my appropriate description of this place. A hundred colours of the Pacific Ocean and the wild and graceful surfs, which are quite awe inspiring. The breeze near the sea at some places is so strong that, walking forward is an effort. The lush tropical vegetation and exotic flowers are quite a contrast to the stark volcanic mountains. This is the very prosperous, peaceful Asian face of America. Fewer 'white' faces - they are mostly smiling faces of Japanese, Koreans, Filipinos. Very charming!
Tonight, we are taking a 7-day cruise on a luxury liner, 'Norwegian Star' - which goes to the major Hawaiian Islands and also to the Republic of Kiribati, which is in a 'foreign' country - earlier known as Gilbert and Ellis Islands. The ship alone has 13 restaurants, apart from other facilities like swimming, golf, etc. Very costly; but on impulse I decided to splurge on it. Tomorrow, when the ship halts at Hilo, we will take a helicopter ride to see the world's only active volcano, and follow its lava to the sea. Later, I came back alone to the Big Island and trekked up to the crater of the live volcano, Kilauea and took a lot of awe-inspiring pictures. This is possibly the most dangerous thing I have done in my life. Imagine, face to face with red hot lava spewing out of Mother Earth at 2000-3000 deg. F. What we used to see on Discovery Channel, now we are doing it ourselves. Live volcano and red-hot lava - WOW! More on return, to Honolulu.

#2 We are 1300 miles away from Hawaii.
The ship is giving us more than 5 star experiences. More hospitality and fun than Taj, Oberoi, Regal and Metro combined. World famous live performers. Also 2300 passengers, 1100 crew from 60 nations!
Today we were on Fanning Island, an atoll with 1200 Polynesians and no electricity and running water. Visitors from the ship have to take their litter back and not leave it on the island!
Now we move on to Maui and Kauai, before reaching Honolulu, on Sunday. Sunsets on board against myriad shades of Pacific blue are amazing.
Wish you were here. LOVE TO ALL!

#3 We are now down-to-earth back in Honolulu, from our dream cruise!
The last e-mail I sent you cost me $24.00. I am mentioning this, not to emphasize the cost, but the uniqueness of the location from where I sent it. Also, to emphasize my eagerness to share my experience with you, before it becomes a distant memory. So the most coveted stamp on my passport is of the 'Republic of Kiribati'; never heard of it before. Till now the most remote location I had been to, was near the Arctic Circle in Norway. Now we had been just near the Equator to Fanning Island. In my stamp-collecting school days, I used to have some of the coveted stamps of 'Gilbert and Ellice Islands'. This is an archipelago now known as the Republic of Kiribati. Strange, the islands have the costliest stamps, but no Post Office! Isn't this charming? Here people live as they lived thousands of years ago, subsisting on fish, coconut and Taro (massive red potato). We could converse with them only in sign language. Very simple, innocent, smiling Polynesians. No Electricity or running water. They have a 'kukukui' tree, whose nuts provide them the oil for cooking and burning torches. They also make canoes from its trunks.
This island has been formed by droppings of sea-birds. Prof. Sahu, our geologist friend, should calculate how many million birds must have shitted for how many million years to form this place. These droppings being rich in phosphates are a natural organic fertilizer. So the 18th century passing buccaneers and adventurers have been mining the island away, and reducing its size. This has mercifully stopped. On the other hand, being so rich in phosphates, no vegetables etc. can grow there, the soil being so highly acidic. Some British missionaries who came to save the souls of these nature worshippers, could not live on local diet and imported soil from Hawaii (1400 miles away), to create a small vegetable patch! There is a small wooden church left, but no missionaries.
In this part of the world, all distances are in units of 'so-many- thousand-miles'. Now we were on Fanning Island and its Capital is in Gilbert Island, which is 2000 miles away. I wonder in their context, what 'Capital' and 'governance' mean, when each one is pretty much on his own and apply their local tribal rules and taboos.

We were transferred from our ship to this island in small boats, as the waters were very shallow, and the highest point on the island was not even 1 metre above the sea level. Global warming will wipe away all these islands. I was thinking, all the time, that our small boat is the only link between life-in-the-raw on the island, and the height of luxury of modern technology and comfort of our ship. Now we come to the $24.00 cost of the e-mail. We were so far away from anywhere, that the ship was out of reach of any of the communication satellites - so no news of the world and no Cable TV for three days. The only link was the ship's communication with the Navigational Satellite, which is in a higher orbit. So I used this link to send the e-mail to you. In case of any medical emergency, it would have been impossible to get any help from the world, except from the ship's medical centre. Of course, the ship has a helicopter pad, in case any evacuation is required, provided there is land near by.
On board, life was a ball. 13 bars had thirteen different live bands. And each evening there was a different full fledged musical show, in the Stardust Theater, which could seat the entire crew and the passengers. This was sometimes necessary, to bring everybody on the same information level regarding emergency matters, etc. One evening we had Andrew Webber Lloyd Evening (of Bombay Dreamz fame). Once, a 'Tribute to Glenn Miller and the Big Bands'. Another one to Nat King Cole, etc. There was country music, Hawaiian music and music from all ages and climes. No matter where you were on the ship, there was music! Dancing in the Discos was an all night affair.
Everyday, there was an Art auction including works of Picasso. So you can imagine with what sort of crowd we got mixed up with! What were missing from my side were a dark suit and a bow tie. I should have known, but I was lazy to lug around too many clothes. I had aromatic oil massage in the Spa, given by two charming Filipino ladies, who very much believed in Yoga and Reiki. The Fitness Center gym was very much in use. Besides, there was a Jogging track on the top deck, and a 1.4 mile walking track. 7 days were not enough to savour all the facilities offered on the ship.
Of course, I also met an American whom I had hard time explaining where India was, and I miserably failed! Cheers!!

#4 Happy New Year!
Hope you, family and friends had a joyous ringing in of the New Year. Please convey our Best Wishes to all our friends. The deafening serenity of Hawaii was shattered by widespread fireworks. Normally, the only sound one hears here are those of the pounding surf. For a change it reminded us of our good old Bombay, during Divali time. Of course, every one collected the mess they had created and then took it to the community trash cans. This is the only day in Hawaii when fireworks can be bought and fired by the public, in the entire year. We celebrated at the home of a Poona-bred 'madrasi' doctor, who settled here 20 years ago. There were also some visiting German friends. The fireworks we fired were from Tamil Nadu and China! Everything here seems to be made in Asia, mostly China.

#5 Honolulu Marathon
Yesterday, was also the famous Honolulu Marathon (26.1 miles) in which thousands took part, and the whole city turned out to buck up the participants. Sumeet also took part. Hundreds came from Japan, Russia, Kenya, etc. And the 'bandobast' with all sorts of help and medical attention for the participants was remarkable. What impressed me most was that a lot of people just short of 90 years also competed and finished the race. There were many participants in wheelchairs also. I admire the 'hausala'/grit of such folks.
#6 Whale-watch and ride on Atlantis Submarine (200 Ft. under water)
The day before, we had taken 'Star of Honolulu', a 4-decker and went out into high seas to do some whale-watching. The humpback whales migrate all the way from Alaska to winter in the warmer waters of the South Pacific. They eat for the entire journey and the winter months in Alaska itself. Here they do not eat at all, till they get back to Alaska. They mate here, bring up their calf and generally frolic. You can see the two water spouts, as an alert that they are about to surface. Sometimes, the appearance of a big fin is an alert. It is fun to see them jump and do a flip, and then disappear. As eve-teasing, the males sing 15-20 minute songs, which were recorded by hydrophones, and played back to us. Generally the mother and calf are seen together. All of us had to be alert and scan the waters in all directions, as one does not know where the next one will appear. When sighted, we have to inform others their position: 12'O clock, 3'O clock, etc. Their total disappearance coincided with our lunchtime. I suppose the cruise timings are scheduled to coincide with the siesta time of the visiting whales!
Earlier I had ventured on to the Atlantis IV submarine for a very surreal view of sea life and Titanic like wrecks of two ships and two sunken aircraft, 200 ft. under water. This submarine has been featured on the cover of National Geographic magazine. My pictures should be coming today.
Aloha! See you soon in Bombay!