Hawaii Vacation Outing: Visit the Makapu'u Tidepools

Fans of the television series Hawaii Five-O may recall Steve McGarrett skillfully navigating his car, a black Mercury Marquis, as he chased a bad guy up along a narrow winding road atop a cliffy ridge. That same winding road was also a setting for scenes on another Hawaii-based TV series, Magnum P.I.

The ridgetop accessed by this road was also used during World War II, and weathered military pillboxes and defensive fortifications still exist on site. Well-known American author and former Hawaii-based GI, James Jones (1921-1977), in his Hawaii-based novels, the most famous of which was "From Here to Eternity," makes mention of Makapu'u and these ridgetop mini-forts.

Nowadays, the winding road is used by scores of hikers, walkers, and bike riders to access a scenic lookout atop a still-in-operation lighthouse. Along that road is a rocky trail that descends to the coastline where some tidepools and a blowhole located. While many people know about the road to the lighthouse, not many know about the trail to the tidepools. So here is the skinny:

How to Get There

To drive to the start of this outing from downtown Honolulu or Waikiki, get on H-1 freeway heading eastbound. By Kahala Mall, H-1 ends and Kalanianaole Highway begins. Follow Kalanianaole for 11 miles, en route passing popular tourist spot Hanauma Bay and popular local spot Sandy Beach. The winding drive along the seacoast past Hanauma is spectacular. After passing the Hawaii Kai Golf Course on the left, the highway will make a sharp rightward bend and begin up a hill. Halfway up the hill on the right is the entrance to the parking area for the start of the hike. Find a parking stall and park.

By Oahu's wonderful public transit system, board Bus #57 (Kailua-Waimanalo-Sea Life Park). Exit at the last stop (Sea Life Park). Walk uphill along Kalanianaole Highway. Be careful, the roadway is narrow and so are the road shoulders. At the top of the hill is a lookout. Great views and photo ops there. Continue down the highway to the entrance of a parking area on the left. You have reached the start of your outing.

The Walk/Hike

Follow the narrow paved road that heads off to the right away from the parking area. After making your way around a locked gate, travel along the road as it climbs gradually toward the crest of the ridge above you. Off to the right toward the coast is a rock formation that juts out like a monolith. This is Pele's Chair, named after Pele, the Hawaiian fire goddess.

The road crests at the top of the ridge and then makes a lefthand swing to continue upridge. A key landmark to look for is a telescope on the right. It is at this point where you will depart the road and begin descending a trail down to the coast. While the way appears death-defying, it is actually fairly tame if care is taken. The trail, though lacking signs and markers, is discernible due to a decent amount of hiker traffic. Take your time as you descend. The hike down takes 20 to 30 minutes. Make sure to carry at least a liter of water for the route is devoid of shade.

Even before you reach the coast, you probably will hear what sounds like a giant clearing the mucus from his throat. Fear not, this isn't Goliath with walking pneumonia: it's a blowhole. Though not as spectacular or well-known as Halona Blowhole, its neighbor down the coast, this one is still a little marvel. Make sure not to get too close, particularly if the surf is high.

The same advice goes for the tidepools you will come upon. While swimming and snorkeling is fine on many days, during times of rough ocean conditions be very careful, for an unwary or inattentive swimmer/snorkeler can be swept out to sea by a large wave.

Advanced hikers can continue down a coastal trail to the right to emerge by Pele's Chair. Do not attempt this if there are rough seas.

For the rest, head back up the trail you descended to return to the road. Once there, you can continue upridge to the road's end at a spectacular lookout with a beautiful view of Makapu'u Beach and the Makapu'u Lighthouse. The ridgetop looming above you is where the bunkers are. Feel free to explore them. Or, if the hike down and back up to the tidepools was enough, head down the road to the starting point.