Herb Profile: Perilla

You may not be as familiar with perilla as you are other herbs such as basil and rosemary. If you, however, enjoy Japanese cuisine, yu have probably eaten perilla at some point.

Perilla (Perilla frutescens) is a hardy annual herb. (I must inject here, though, that my experience with growing perilla has been a bit different. The first time I planted this herb, it turned into an invasive perennial -- okay, maybe a self-seeding annual -- that had a tendency to pop-up everywhere. It may not behave the same for you; however, if it does, you will not be able to say that I didn't warn you.) There are different varieties with leaves in colors of green, red, or purple and have a look and texture that reminds me of coleus.

Perilla was used for centuries by the Chinese as a medicinal herb, as did the Japanese in a traditional system of medicine known as Kampo. The herb was used to treat colds, flu, and other respiratory infections. It was also used to treat various allergic reactions and is an important ingredient in Saibokuto, a Kampo herbal remedy for several allergic conditions, including hay fever. In addition, it is used to treat nausea and other stomach upsets. Generally, it is safe for use; however, as with all herbal remedies, you should first consult your primary healthcare professional and/or a certified herbalist. It should not be taken if you are already taking any medications for allergies, and pregnant and nursing women should not use any quantities greater than would normally be used for culinary purposes. One last warning: handling perilla too much can cause dermatitis.

As a culinary herb, perilla, as previously mentioned, is frequently used in Japanese cuisine, with Japanese chefs generally using the red variety. (Some common names of perilla are beefsteak plant, Chinese basil, and shiso.) Perilla has a spicy flavor with the leaves having a fragrance similar to a combination of cumin and cinnamon; although, a green variety has ginger-scented leaves. (The green leaves are often used in sashimi.) The red leaves are frequently used as a wrap for such dishes as sushi. They are also used to flavor and color pickled plums and ginger. In addiiton, the seeds are pickled and used as a condiment. Other varieties of perilla are used in Indonesian, Korean, and Vietnamese cooking, as well. Perilla also contains a volatile oil that is 2,000 sweeter than sugar, and this is often used in Japan as a sweetener.

Varieties of perilla:
'Green Cumin' and 'Purple Cumin': both have cumin-cinnamon-scented leaves.
'Aojiso': green leaves with ginger scent. Used in sashimi.
'Red' or 'Akajiso': deep red to purple leaves.
'Kkaennip' or Korean perilla: large leaves. Used to wrap food and as a preservative. Also used in salads.
'Thai': strong flavor and quite good for cooking.

References:

Booth, Barbara, ed. The Complete Illustrated Book of Herbs. Pleasantville, NY: The Reader's Digest Association, Inc., 2009.

Houdret, Jessica. Practical Herb Garden. London, England: Hermes House, 2003.