Hidden Hideaways of the Dominican Republic
Discover an Affordable and Authentic Travel Experience Along the DR's North Coast
Far from the bustling crowds and carnivals of Santo Domingo, a city of more than two million people, there is a place where the teal water of the Caribbean laps away at white sands, where coconut trees stretch as far as the eye can see, and where you can order a lunch of freshly caught pescado (fish) and morro (the local variety of beans and rice) for little more than the cost of a super value meal at McDonald's. Sound too good to be true? For many travelers it may well be, but if you like combining vacation with adventure, and if you have the desire to meet Dominicans from all walks of life, then I encourage you to visit the largely undeveloped North Coast of the Dominican Republic.
To visit the northern part of the island try flying into Santiago as opposed to Santo Domingo. You may even find that flights into Santiago are slightly cheaper than those heading to the capitol. In Santiago, there are a handful of budget hotels that offer minimal services for a minimal price. A couple of backpackers can split a room at Hotel Colonial in the center of the city for around ten dollars each. You can grab a cheap breakfast of eggs, toast, and coffee at the restaurant on the first floor.
Make the mile and a half walk from the hotel to the bus station (be sure to check out the city's cemetery on your way, it's one of a kind) or catch a cab for about five bucks. From the bus station you are less than two hours and four dollars a person from the North Coast.
The bus north will stop in Puerto Plata, a resort hot spot. From there you can ask around to find the nearest gua-gua going east. Gua-guas are small vans that carry passengers from town to town for a mere one to two dollars per trip. You can stand at a scheduled stop or simply flag one down as it passes by.
The next town east of Puerto Plata is Sosua. Sosua is a good first stop as it is much smaller, but still very lively. There are plenty of restaurants and bars, and a nice beach in the middle of town. You'll have several options for affordable lodging, including Rocky's Rock and Blues Bar Hotel, where you can book a surprisingly nice room for around twenty five dollars. Enjoy a cold Presidente as you sit in the shaded courtyard that serves as both bar and restaurant.
If Sosua is a little too hectic for you, catch another gua-gua east to Rio San Juan - one of the best kept secrets of the Dominican. Rio San Juan is a tranquil town with a pleasant local beach and two of the best North Coast beaches just kilometers away. Catch a ride on a moto (motorbikes are the primary means of transport for many Dominicans and it is very easy to negotiate a small price for a ride just about anywhere) to Playa Grande, one of the most beautiful beaches in the DR, or Playa Caleton, a peaceful little bay that is far more likely to be populated with locals than tourists. There are not many hotels in Rio San Juan, so save yourself the hassle and head straight for Bahia Blanca, where you can enjoy a private waterfront room for anywhere from twenty to forty dollars a night. They have a wonderful bar and restaurant for breakfast or dinner, and the staff is pleasant. Best of all, you can sit on the patio and watch the local kids playing at the public beach that is adjacent to the hotel.
If you can manage to convince yourself to leave Rio San Juan (it took us four days!), catch a gua-gua east toward the Peninsula de Samana. Ride through Samana and continue on to Las Galeras, a tiny beach town that makes Rio San Juan seem like a metropolis.
Las Galeras is a town that has only become a destination for tourists in the last decade, and it was our experience that some of the locals weren't too thrilled about the new attention. There isn't much reason to stay very long in town, and you are really only there for one reason - to find a way to get to Playa Rincon.
Frequently lauded as one of the top ten beaches in the world, Playa Rincon is a tropical wonderland that is yet to be discovered by most of the outside world. Ask your hotel manager to find you a moto driver that will take you to the beach. The same driver that takes you out will probably be willing to come back and pick you up later in the day. Lose track of the hours walking along the untouched tropical shore that stretches nearly three kilometers from end to end. There is a small shack that offers cooked meals at the north end of the beach, and don't be surprised if you encounter less than a dozen other tourists during your visit. Relax in the white sands, swim in the Caribbean sea, and breathe in the salty air. Allow yourself to smile, because you have landed at one of the most secluded and undeveloped tropical destinations in the world.
There are plenty of towns to explore as you make your way back to Santiago for the flight home, and there is much more to the North Coast than what can possibly be explored in this brief introduction. Before your visit be sure to pick up one of the popular travel guides (I recommend Lonely Planet) and scour the pages for countless hidden treasures that can be found in this beautiful island nation. If you come prepared with an open mind, a sense of adventure, and a desire to experience Dominican culture and hospitality, you can't go wrong with an adventure vacation along the picturesque North Coast of the DR.
Published by Nate Roderick
Writer, musician, and actor. Nate has accepted an apprenticeship on an organic vegetable farm for the 2010 growing season. He looks forward to growing and eating delicious, healthy foods. View profile
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- Enjoy a world class tropical adventure vacation for a fraction of the price of a week in a resort.
- Discover one of the most unpopulated, breathtaking beaches in the world in Playa Rincon.
- Skip the air conditioned bus and hop a gua-gua from town to town.