Hidden Jewels of San Francisco

San Francisco is now my favorite city on the entire planet, and it's not simply because my son now makes it his home. It's a big, bustling metropolis with some small town feel in quaint and picturesque neighborhoods. There's the foggy ocean side, the hot and sunny Bay side, and plenty of hills and mountains in between. There's an abundance of history, culture, music and arts to explore. In addition, it's a great launching point for trips to the wine countries of Sonoma and Napa to the north, the Sierras to the east, and Silicon Valley to the south.

My goal when traveling is to find the "hidden jewels" in my destination. The locals always know the best places to hang out, and to me, there's nothing worse than being an obvious tourist! Don't be afraid to ask a local passerby questions. For the most part, San Franciscans are friendly, and they are a great source for information.

The first thing to remember is that even though San Francisco is in California, most of the time it's far from balmy. If you want to blend in with the natives, ditch the resort wear of shorts and travel-emblazoned tee shirts and opt for khakis or jeans. Bring lots of layers, because it can be 80 degrees and brilliantly sunny on the bay side of the city and thirty degrees colder and foggy by the ocean. Leave the flip flops at home, and bring sensible walking shoes - you'll need them for navigating the hilly terrain.

Transportation
If you must rent a car, go for the smallest one in which you can comfortably fit you and your party. The streets of San Francisco are narrow as well as extremely hilly. I'm a girl who grew up in the Rockies, and some of the Fog City elevations are enough to give this seasoned mountain girl palpitations! Parking, if you can find it, is at a premium, and when you are able to find it, the spaces seem very small. Also, gas is incredibly expensive. A small car will provide easier accessibility and savings in gas mileage. I will rent a small car just to have transportation in case I want to drive out of the city, but I make use of the MUNI system whenever I can to get downtown or to some of the neighborhoods. The MUNI is safe, quiet and pollution free, and fares are reasonable at $1.50, which includes 90 minutes of transfers. Check out fares and routes at http://www.sfmuni.com.

Lodging
Consider staying somewhere other than downtown. Sure, the downtown area is where all the tourist traps are, but there are other interesting parts of town as well. I actually didn't visit any of the usual tourist haunts (Fisherman's Wharf, Coit Tower, Chinatown) until I had visited San Francisco four times! Lodging in other areas is modest and may be more economical. The Best Western in Japan Town is reasonably priced, clean, and offers free parking http://www.sfjapantown.org. There's a decent sushi bar on site, although right across the street is a dizzying array of Japanese restaurants, all with great food. The Best Western is also convenient to downtown, the Golden Gate, and the ocean. Japan Town is typically not as crowded as Chinatown, unless there's a festival going on.

My favorite area to stay is in the Sunset/Parkside district, which is the most western part of town and closest to the ocean and Ocean Beach. Off Sloat and the Great Highway, near the San Francisco Zoo, there is a Days Inn at the Beach and the Ocean Park Motel http://oceanparkmotel.citysearch.com/. The Ocean Park, a stunning retro beauty, is billed as the oldest motel in San Francisco. Be prepared for authentic art deco design and décor. There's a private hot tub for guest use. Some rooms are equipped with kitchens, and Mark, the owner, is friendly and helpful. There is some parking on site, but it is first come first served. Usually, street parking can also be found; just pay attention to the parking signs. (Parking fines are exorbitant at $40 a ticket, and San Francisco is one place where you won't be able to fight City Hall.) A small discount is offered to Conservatory parents and students. Both motels are at the end of the M-Taraval MUNI line.

Further up the Great Highway is the Oceanview Motel, which is located at Judah and 48^th. This is the end of the N-Judah MUNI line. The Oceanview is fairly Spartan; you won't even get an in-room coffee pot, but there's a coffee house next door if you need a jolt of morning caffeine. The facilities are clean, and there's limited parking available as well. To the north two blocks is the Great Highway Inn http://www.greathwy.com/. The Great Highway Inn is more spacious than either the Oceanview or Ocean Park, there's more parking and it's right across from the beach and the southwest corner of Golden Gate Park.

Just a few things to do
These are just a few attractions that I've come to enjoy, and usually they are far away from the hustle and bustle of the usual tourist spots downtown.

The beauty of staying on the "ocean" side of San Francisco is the proximity to the sea and Ocean Beach. Ocean Beach is five miles of flat sand from the zoo at the south to the Cliff House to the north. It's perfect for running or walking, people, seal or bird watching, surfing, or fishing. Just remember that this California beach isn't like "Baywatch." It can be cold and blustery, so dress appropriately.

North of the Great Highway Inn and east of the Cliff House is Golden Gate Park http://www.sftravel.com/ggpark.html. This enormous city park dwarfs New York City's Central Park, and some of the activities to put on your "Things to Do List" include the Japanese Tea Gardens, the Conservatory of Flowers, the Museum of Art and Science, deYoung Art Museum and Legion of Honor, just to mention a few. There are also picnic grounds, dog runs, tennis courts, golf course, soccer fields, boat house, playgrounds, bowling greens, baseball fields and handball courts. My recommendation is to get a map. The streets inside the park are winding, and it's easy to lose your bearings.

If arts and culture is what you crave, the Civic Center area downtown houses the Symphony, Ballet and Opera. If you'd like to get culture on the cheap, consider attending San Francisco Conservatory of Music recitals. The Conservatory's new digs are in the Civic Center area, just north of Market Street off Van Ness. Recital season is in late March and April, and many recitals and other performances are free. The rest are a nominal $10-$15. You can check out the upcoming performance calendar on www.sfcm.edu

Golden Gate National Recreation Area is another place to consider. This area encompasses Alcatraz; Muir, China, Stinson and Ocean Beach; Forts Baker, Funston, Cronkhite and Mason; Muir Woods; the Marin Headlands; the Presidio; the Point Bonita Lighthouse; and the Sutro Baths, as well as other points of interest. Some of these attractions are less crowded, and I would see these first. For more information, go to http://www.nps.gov/goga/index.htm.

Dining
California has some of the best food in the world. My suggestion is to stay away from the fast food you can get anywhere, and eat as the natives do. It's said that if you want to find a good restaurant in San Francisco, pick one with the line going out the door. It would be possible to live here for years and not try all of eateries once. Here are just a few of my personal favorites.

The Beach Chalet is part of Golden Gate Park. The beautiful Depression area murals downstairs are worth checking out as well. The food is strictly American fare, and very good! http://beachchalet.com

History abounds at the Cliff House. The current structure is the third incarnation of this famous landmark. Inside are three restaurants, the Sutro, the Bistro and the Terrace Room. We dined there New Year's Eve 2005, and it was an uncharacteristically clear night with a spectacular sunset over the ocean. The food's not bad too! http://www.cliffhouse.com

If you love garlic, the Stinking Rose is a garlic lover's delight. Garlic is in everything, including the ice cream. http://www.thestinkingrose.com/

No trip to San Francisco would be complete without a stop at Tommy's Mexican Restaurant. This Geary Avenue hangout not only offers a menu from Mexico and the Yucatan, but also has the world's best tequila bar. Come early, because this is one popular place and they don't take reservations. http://www.tommystequila.com/

While there are many great Japanese restaurants in town, I would recommend Ebisu,located near Golden Gate Park. The service is great and the sushi is wonderful. In addition to many great restaurants, you can find fresh, locally grown fruits and vegetables at area markets.

Every time I visit this wonderful city, I make an attempt to try something new. Look around; you never know what kind of "hidden jewels" you will find!