Our desire to summit Mount Whitney began in 2004, about a year after we took up hiking as an outdoor activity. In 2005, we originally planned to hike the New Army Pass Trail with a few friends in tow; unfortunately we were not awarded a permit. In 2006 we had the golden tickets but a terrible head cold kept us at sea level. Finally this June we had the weekend permits, we were healthy, physically fit - thanks to many visits to the weight and cardio rooms at the gym - and determined to summit the tallest peak in the contiguous United States.
Since we had been anticipating this trip since February, we had our packing and shopping lists prepared. The week before our trek was filled with trips to R.E.I., Sports Chalet, and the grocery store. For nearly three days we had our equipment, food, clothing, hiking boots and poles displayed over the entire living room floor and obsessively checked our lists to ensure we did not over - or under - pack: "Bear Can?" "Check!" "Lip Balm?" "Check!" "Sunscreen?" "Check!"
Now that we have had a successful summit attempt, we would like to impart our wisdom on to you. Knowing this information up front will help you be prepared and confident as you rise 14,497 feet to the top of the contiguous United States!
What to Bring
If you are planning to camp overnight be sure to don your hiking outfit (pants, short sleeve shirt, long sleeve shirt and any necessary under garments) and bring along 1 change of underwear, 1 change of socks (We recommend SmartWool socks), long underwear, rain pants, rain jacket with hood, fleece or down jacket, gloves, fleece hat, baseball cap, sunglasses, hiking poles, and a comfortable pair of hiking boots with some mileage on them. In addition to what you will wear on your body, let's talk about what you'll need in your pack:
- In the Bear Can (these may be rented at the Whitney Portal Store in case you don't already own one
- food and snacks (three-day menu below)
- Hard Candy (Jolly Ranchers recommended)
- Toothbrush
- Aspirin
- Lip balm
- Sunscreen (SPF 50)
- Insect repellant (with deet)
- spork
- plastic cup
- stove (Recommend: Jetboil Personal Cooking System - weighs 15 ounces!)
- water purifier (Recommend: MSR MiniWorks EX Filter - weighs 14.6 ounces!)
- knife
- small, packable summit pack
- toilet paper
- W.A.G. bag - provided by the rangers along with your permit (explained below)
- first-aid kit
- a sturdy tent that will sustain the mountains unpredictable weather (Recommend: Bible Ahwahnee 2; a five pound, four season tent that sleeps two. It's a little pricey, but well worth the price)
- a down sleeping bag (Recommend: Mountain Hardwear Banshee SL + 0; a three pound bag. Also pricey, but worth it's (light) weight in gold)
- some sort of lightweight egg crate or air mattress to lay on
- headlamp
- watch with alarm
- and - most importantly - a camera
The W.A.G Bag
Some of you may be wondering, "Just what is a W.A.G. bag and why would I need one?" Well, these bags are provided for human waste alleviation - and gelling. Bluntly - it's where you put your poop. You are required to pack out all solid human waste out of the Whitney Zone. Be sure to bring along extra toilet paper - the paper provided in the W.A.G. bag is definitely not sufficient.
What to Leave at Home
A change of clothes, jewelry, toothpaste, books, and anything that could be considered a luxury - you won't want the extra weight; especially if you are hiking to trail camp with an overnight pack.
What to Expect
Check with the ranger station for current trail conditions before you go to be sure you are dressed appropriately and have any required equipment (i.e., crampons and ice axes). It's also a good idea to chat with hikers on their return trip to get up-to-the-minute trail conditions. The Whitney Portal Store website is also a wonderful resource for weather related information for Lone Pine, portal and summit conditions. They provide links to the National Oceanic & Atmospheric Administration - you can't get much more reliable than that!
Altitude and the wonders of Aspirin
Many hikers will experience Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) above 10,000 feet. This sickness can affect even the most physically fit of hikers; unfortunately it is a genetic predisposition that can not be avoided. It can be controlled, or at the very least subdued, by taking aspirin, naproxen or ibuprofen as directed until your body has had the opportunity to acclimatize. Symptoms include headache, nausea, dizziness, fatigue and shortness of breath. Acclimatization can usually be achieved in one night.
Bears and Marmots
We were not lucky enough to see any bears during our trip, but they are out there. Be sure you're car is free of all food and scented items before heading out. There are bear-proof containers available at the trailhead in case you plan to leave any food for your return. While hiking, take care that all food and scented items are stored in your bear can over night; you do not want to have any unexpected guests in your tent!
There were many chipmunks, birds and other small to medium sized marmots that greeted us along the way. They are smart and understand hikers bring food - and they know where to look for it. Be especially wary of this when you stop to rest or eat along the trail; animals will eat through your pack to get to food. Hanging your food is not an option, bear cans are required.
Water
There are plenty of opportunities to replenish your water supply along the trail so don't worry about carrying too much at any time; one to two liters should get you to the next water crossing. The best places to filter water are: Outpost Camp, Trailside Meadow and Trail Camp.
Food and Snacks
Here is a complete menu for a three-day hike; this should curb any hunger pangs along the way! We recommend the Mountain House (MH) freeze dried meals - they actually taste good and all you need to do is add hot water! They are available at R.E.I. and Sports Chalet.
Day 1
Breakfast: Oatmeal or MH Eggs and Bacon
Snack: Trail Mix and Jolly Ranchers
Lunch: Cliff Bar and Whole Wheat Tortilla with Peanut Butter
Snack: MH Mangos and Strawberries
Dinner: MH Beef Stew and MH Raspberry Crumble (Drink: Gookinade - an electrolyte and fluid replacement drink available at R.E.I.)
Day 2
Breakfast: Oatmeal or MH Eggs and Ham
Snack: Trail Mix and Jolly Ranchers
Lunch: Cliff Bar and Whole Wheat Tortilla with Peanut Butter
Snack: MH Mangos and Strawberries
Dinner: MH Beef Stroganoff and MH Neapolitan Ice Cream (Drink: Gookinade)
Day 3
Breakfast: Oatmeal or MH Granola
Snack: Trail Mix and Jolly Ranchers
Lunch: Cliff Bar and Whole Wheat Tortilla with Peanut Butter
Snack: MH Mangos and Strawberries
Dinner: The Pizza Factory, 301 S. Main Lone Pine, CA 93545 - treat yourself to a large pie!
Footwear
We recommend the Gore-Tex Cresta Hikers (Leather) from L.L. Bean. These made-in-Italy medium-weight boots offer ample support and stability for hikers wearing heavier packs. They also rate high in comfort and durability - just make sure they're broken in before attempting any long, strenuous hike. The best thing about these boots is the price, they are comparably inexpensive!
Trail Details - The Long and Winding Road
The trail to the top is full of ascent and switchbacks. Shortly after beginning your hike at the portal, you will be taken up a series of switchbacks towards Outpost Camp. On the far side of the meadow lies Outpost Camp and its waterfall. This is a great area to rest, soak your feet and eat lunch. There are many shade trees that give you relief from the sun and trail. If you're planning to camp here fore the night, relax and enjoy the rest of your day - you've made it!
If you plan to go on to trail camp, you will see picturesque views of Lone Pine Lake, Mirror Lake and, once you're above the tree line, the expansive canyon you've left behind. At this point it's difficult to take your eyes off the trail ahead and the looming mountain range, but you'll be glad you took a moment to look behind you at the progress you've made!
When you arrive at Trail Camp you will be greeted by the steepest part of the trail - 97 switchbacks. Although not easily visible from the camp, they are only about 200 yards away. Look closely and you will see tiny figures making their way up or down the mountain, depending on what time of day you arrive at Trail Camp. Set up camp, eat a hearty Mountain House meal and turn in early. It's best to hit the switchbacks between 3-4 in the morning to be sure you make it to the summit before noon. The Solar latrines are no longer available; there are designated latrine 'areas' that are easily identifiable.
With your trusty headlamp illuminating the way, head towards the looming mountain in front of you, you'll pass a small lake on your right. Take your time and climb steadily towards Trail Crest. After you have passed through approximately 20-25 switchbacks, you will notice the trail meets water. Use caution in the wee hours of the morning or late afternoon as this water may be icy.
When you reach the cable section, you have 44 switchbacks to go before reaching Trail Crest. The cables are at the far end of a particularly long switchback and are easier then they look; but use caution as snow and ice may be present.
When you arrive at Trail Crest you are greeted with your first glimpse of the west; this spot is a great opportunity for photos. From here, the trail descends - much to everyone's dismay - but ascends again steadily along the ridgeline to the summit. While passing through and after the three "windows" there will be a considerable amount of exposure, so please hike with care. The "windows" are peek-a-boo areas where there is exposure on both sides of a 4-foot wide trail. You can see far to the east and west here; they are about 10-12 feet in length so hike with care especially if snow and/or ice is present. The wind can also pick up at these points so sturdy footing is essential.
As you hike a bit further you will notice the Main Mount Whitney Trail meets up with the John Muir Trail, at this point you will need to make a decision at the fork on the road; there is also a slightly ominous sign that warns of extreme danger from lightning. This is a good reminder to take a look upwards and make sure you have clear blue skies before continuing. The trail on the right that ascends along the ridgeline is the trail that will take you to the summit. It sounds logical, but every year a few people mistakenly descend along the John Muir trail and do not get a chance to summit.
For the last mile you will hike along what looks like a huge boulder field, there is a trail carved out, but it is difficult to discern where it leads unless there are hikers in front of you. Along the way, be sure to take in the views of Guitar Lake (it really looks like a guitar!), little guitar lake, the Sierra Nevada mountain range and Mount Muir.
A final left turn leads you up to the summit. When you see the summit hut appear for the first time, don't be surprised if you become unexpectedly emotional - It is a beautiful sight! A few more steps and you are awarded with panoramic views of the Sierra Nevada's, Desert Valley, Alabama Hills and the great Western Divide. Be sure to take plenty of photos and sign the register!
If hiking to the summit of Mount Whitney is in your future we hope you have found this information helpful. So, have fun, be safe, take plenty of photos and we'll see you at the trailhead!
Published by Sara Romero
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