Holly's Country Cooking in Conway, Arkansas Serves Up Great Food

With the wide spread availability of various ethnic cuisines like Mexican, Italian and Chinese, it's easy to overlook the simple appeal of a quick plate lunch. If you're one of those people who are always spotted at the newest or trendiest restaurants, you may have missed Holly's Country Cooking in Conway. If so, that's too bad because you are missing out on one of life's true dining pleasures.

Holly's Country Cooking isn't fancy, and at lunch, the line snakes out the door. Service is efficient, but seldom friendly. Don't expect your server to plop down at your table for a friendly chat, but do expect some great Southern style home cooking. The menu is limited to Fried Chicken, Chicken Fried Steak and the daily lunch specials. The Plate Lunch (the only thing on the menu besides desserts) is $5.55 and includes your choice of entree, two vegetables and your choice a yeast roll or corn bread.

Our most recent visit was on a Friday, and as usual for Holly's, the crowd makes it difficult to move without inadvertently elbowing someone, but after a ten minute wait, we made it to the table. Friday's choices are meatloaf and three cheese chicken. I chose the meatloaf, while my dining companion stuck with the tried and true chicken fried steak.

There is a good selection of vegetables and side dishes, and I chose purple hull peas and mashed potatoes, while my friend chose turnip greens and macaroni and cheese. The meatloaf was old-fashioned, with onions and a tangy tomato sauce. There was nothing fancy or special about it. It was firm and traditional the perfect comfort food on a cold day. The purple hull peas needed a health serving of salt, but were okay. The potatoes were real, though, and mashed with butter and cream.

My dining companion raved about her chicken fried steak. It covered half the plate and was covered in a crispy brown batter with white gravy and was tender enough that a knife wasn't necessary. She did complain that the turnip greens were somewhat bland, but the macaroni and cheese was slightly salty and creamy with real cheese. We each chose yeast rolls, and they arrived warm and soft, with a slightly sweet aftertaste.

For the price, Holly's Country Cooking offers a great meal, but the service can be a little cold. Hours are from 11:00 to 2:00 Monday through Friday, and the waitstaff does hover to make sure you don't dawdle over your meal. If you are looking for a relaxing meal, look elsewhere. But if you are looking for great country food at a great price, Holly's Country Cooking is the place to be in Conway.