Materials Needed: Base Gravel: 5/8" minus crushed rock
for pedestrian areas (residential) the base should be 4" - 6" thick
for vehicular areas (residential) the base should be 6" - 8" thick
1 cubic yard of gravel will cover approximately 300 sf @ 1" depth
Bedding Sand:
for top dressing the gravel base at a thickness of 1" - 2"
1 cubic yard of sand will cover approximately 300 sf @ 1" depth
Joint Sand:
1 bag will cover approximately 100 sf
Edge Restraint:
Tools Needed:
iron rake & push broom
wheelbarrow
stakes (for setting the grade)
string lines & line level
mallet
tape measure
hose w/spray nozzle
Rental Items:
masonry saw w/diamond blade
Safety Gear:
safety goggles or glasses
ear plugs
2. Excavate the entire area to be paved. To determine the depth of excavation needed add the base thickness, top dressing thickness and stone or paver thickness together. Allow about 1/4" per foot slope to insure proper water runoff. Slopes should always be set away from your home and never up hill.
Phase Two: Installing the Base Layer
2. Compact the entire sub grade.
3. After you've finished compacting the sub grade, add a 2" layer of 5/8" minus gravel and rake it smooth. Moisten it slightly and compact it. Repeat until your base has reached the desired elevation. The final product is directly affected by the base so make sure to correct any imperfections at this time. Don't add any top dressing until the base layer is just right.
4. Once your base layer has been perfected add your top dressing and use the top of the rake (opposite the tines) to smooth it out. Leave as few bumps and furrows as possible. Do not compact the top dressing.
Phase Three: Installing the Pavers
2. Begin by placing stone or pavers onto the top dressing. Do not push them into it and do not hammer them with the mallet. Set a string line a few inches above the pattern to maintain straight joint lines. If any of the pattern will be walked on before final adjustment make sure to cover it with a piece of plywood so the weight distribution remains more even.
3. Once you've installed as many full pavers as you can start measuring and cutting pavers to fill any voids in your pattern.
Phase Four: Installing the Edge Restraint
2. Secure edge restraint using galvanized spikes (1 per foot) making sure to maintain pressure against the edge of your pattern. Make sure every edge is firmly restrained before final compaction.
Final Phase: Joint Sand & Paver Compaction
2. Sweep joint sand over the entire pattern to fill paver joints and lock up pattern lines. Sweep excess sand from paver area.
3. Run the plate compactor around the perimeter first and then make back and forth runs, slightly overlapping the previous run.
4. Sweep joint sand into the joints again.
5. Compact the pavers making sure to run perpendicular to the first compaction.
6. Sweep joint sand into the joints until they are full.
7. Moisten lightly to help the joint sand settle and to make sure that there aren't any puddles forming.
8. Enjoy!1. Make sure all lines and patterns are satisfactory. This is your last chance to make adjustments.1. Determine which edges will require a restraint system. Any edge not retained by a solid structure should have a plastic edge restraint installed.1. Determine your starting point and direction of installation. Depending on your choice of stone or pavers as well as the site geography and conditions these will vary. Generally you will want to establish the longest row of pavers that don't require any cuts and build off of that.1. Add a light layer of 5/8" minus gravel to the excavated site. This will keep the plate compactor from getting stuck in the sub grade.Phase One: Excavation1. Delineate the area to be paved using stakes and string lines at the desired finished elevation. Set the stakes a minimum of 4" outside the area to be paved to allow room for the edge restraint.respirator (dust mask)plate compactorshovels (flat and pointed) straight and flexible types are available, restraint is held in place using galvanized spikes which are available wherever edge restraint is soldvery fine paver joint sand usually sold in 80 lb bags clean sand (washed concrete sand is fine)
Published by D. M. French
I grew up in NH and moved to Seattle 11 years ago. My fiance and I had our first child on April 10, 2006. I work part time at the West Seattle Family YMCA and am a freelance writer/musician in my free time. View profile
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