Hoppin' John: the Southern New Years Tradition

The origin of Hoppin' John is debatable. Most likely the dish was first made in South Carolina by plantation slaves. South Carolina, in the mid 1800's was well known for growing the finest rice in the Americas. Rice, smoked ham hocks and dried black-eyed peas are the ingredients for Hoppin' John. All these ingredients were readily available to slaves in the South Carolina low country.

The origin of the name Hoppin' John is also in question. From husband John, hoppin' to the table as the dinner was served, to waiters Hoppin' to serve hungry dinners in John's restaurant in Charleston. Tales of the origin of the name are diverse.

Why Hoppin' John is lucky may go back to slave days when a shiny new penny was placed in the pot of black-eyed peas. The diner getting that new penny in their bowl was lucky for the next year. Most folks now prefer to leave the coin out so that all can share in the good luck.

The greens served with Hoppin' John became to symbolize making more money in the New Year. When that happened is unclear, but after the civil war is the best guess. Cornbread is served with the Hoppin' John and greens because it tastes great with either the pot liquor from the greens or sauce from the black-eyed peas.

The recipe is simple, but it is a slow cooked meal because of the time of the year. New Years Day in South Carolina isn't bitterly cold, but the hearth would be fired. Today there is not much need to gather around the hearth or stove. That is a shame because it does bring folks together. This year you might want to turn down the thermostat and fire up the stove for a taste of Southern tradition.

Hoppin' John: One pound (16 ounces dried) black-eyed peas, two pounds smoked ham hocks, one large onion diced, salt and pepper to taste.

In a large pot (three quarts or better) bring two quarts of water and the ham hocks to a boil. While the water is boiling, thoroughly rinse and clean the peas to remove anything that don't look like a pea. Once the water has come to a boil add the clean black-eyed peas and cover. Once the pot returns to a boil, add one teaspoon salt and some pepper. Simmer at a light bubbling boil for one and a half hours covered. Don't stir for the first hour and a half, but check the water level once and a while. The peas should be moving around freely. If not add water and adjust your heat down a touch. Remove the cover for the last half of the cooking time. From two hours of cooking to when the peas are done you need to check the water regularly. Once the peas are nice and tender they are done. Give them a nice stir at this time to thicken the sauce and remove them from the heat. This is the time to adjust your seasoning. Since you have no idea how salty the ham hock is at the start, adjust the salt after the peas have cooked.

It is not Hoppin' John unless the black-eyed peas are served over rice. So make at least two dried cups of rice 20 minutes before you plan to serve. The ham hock is falling off the bone after the cooking time so make sure everyone gets a nice chunk on their plate.

Collard greens and turnip greens are traditional sides for Hoppin' John. Since I moved to Florida I have grown partial to mustard greens. Mustard greens are tasty and require much less cooking time.

Quick Mustard Greens: One bunch fresh mustard greens, four strips smoked bacon, one teaspoon white vinegar, Salt and pepper to taste.

In a large pot on medium heat, fry the bacon until nearly crisp. Add ½ cup water carefully, it may splatter and then the washed greens. Cover for fifteen minutes and stirring every five minutes or so. Reduce heat to low. The greens are done after 20 minutes, but keep them covered on low heat to preserve that tasty pot liquor. Add the vinegar just before serving or let your guests sprinkle it on their own plate.

The cornbread I have started cheating on because I can. I use Jiffy cornbread mix per the directions with a half to one cup of sharp grated cheddar cheese added before baking depending on my mood. Jiffy is a sweet cornbread that is not traditional. With the cheese added it is just plain good so it is allowed.

Try starting off your New Year with a Southern tradition.

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