How to Build a Climbing Ladder Deer Stand

Aluminum or Steel square tubing is my suggestion - Aluminum is a little more expensive - but its lighter where as steel is a little heavier, but its cheaper!

* Hacksaw

* Angle grinder

* Tape measure

* Welder (you'll also need gloves and a hood)

* Center punch

* Hammer

* Bench vice

* Crescent wrench

* 9/16" open ended wrenches

* 5/16" open ended wrenches

* 2 x small G clamps

* 15' x 3/4" x 3/4" - 16 Gauge steel or aluminum square tubing

* 55' 2" of 1" x 1" x 16 GA steel or aluminum square tubing [3 x 16' lengths and a 7' 2" length]

* 4' x 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" 16 GA [0.065 wall] steel square or aluminum tubing

* 2 pieces of flat steel or aluminum plate 6" x 1" by 1/8" thick

* 4 x eye bolts with hex nut [9/16" diameter and 1 - 5/8" shaft length]

* 2 - short ratchet straps

* 2 - long ratchet straps

* 8 - 5/16" x 2 1/2" carriage bolts [if using plywood not mesh for seat/footrest]

* 5 - 9/16" x 2" nut, bolt and washer

* 2 - 9/16" x 1- 1/2" nut, bolt and washer

Well, let's cut to the chase - shall we?

1. Lengths to cut:

3/4" x 3/4" sq. tubing:

(11) - 1' 4"

1" x 1" sq. tubing:

(2) - 16'

(4) - 2' 4"

(2) - 1' 7"

(4) - 1' 2"

(3) - 2'

1 1/2" x 1 1/2" sq. tubing:

(4) - 6"

(1) - 2'

2. We're going to start with the ladder fabrication and assembly. To assemble the ladder you will need to gather the (2) 1" x 1" x 16' pieces and the (11) 3/4" x 3/4" x 1' 4" pieces. Before we move on, go ahead and take your grinder and smooth down the ends - don't forget your safety glasses!

Take the (2) 16' foot pieces and mark one end on each length. This will be the bottom of your railing

3. Measuring from the bottom, take your tape measure and mark a point that is 1' from the bottom. Starting from that mark, you will need to make 10 more marks at 1' 4" apart. When you are finished you should have a space of 1' 8" between the top of the rail and your last mark.

4. Lay the (2) 16' pieces on the ground about 1' 2" apart. Starting from the bottom, take (11) sections and lay them down so that the top end of each of the (11) sections is lined up with a mark on the (2) 16' pieces. Once they are all in place, use the clamps to secure them. Put on your welding hood tack weld them in place.

After all the rungs are tacked into place - take a quick measurement before welding.

5. Measuring from the bottom of the ladder, there should be 11 1/4" clearance to the bottom of the first rung. Additionally, there should be 1' 3/4" clearance from the top of each rung to the bottom of the next rung. The gap from the top rung to the top of the railings will still be 1' 8".

Assuming that all measurements are right - complete the welding of the ladder.

Take the complete ladder and measure 5' 4" from the bottom on each rail. Using a hacksaw, cut on these marks. **For future reference this piece will be known as Ladder 1.**

6. Set Ladder 1 aside. Take the ladder and from where you just cut, measure up to 5' 4" making a mark on each rail once again - using your hacksaw cut through the rails on these marks. The bottom rails on these marks. The bottom piece will now be known as piece will now be known as Ladder 2 and the top piece will be known as Ladder 3. **A dab of spray paint in 3 different colors can help differentiate the 3 sections - or a simple labeling of L1, L2, L3 will do)

7. Go back to your cut materials and grab the (4) pieces of 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" x 6" square tubing.

Take Ladder 1 and (2) of the 6" pieces. At the top of Ladder 1, place the 6" sections over the rail ends. Weld the 2 pieces onto the rail ends like a sleeve. The bottom rails of Ladder 2 will slide into these "sleeves" to connect the two pieces together.

Repeat this process on Ladder 2.

8. Join Ladder 1 and Ladder 2 together by placing the bottom rails of Ladder 2 into the "sleeves" on Ladder 1. Drill a hole that is 5/8" through the "sleeves" and the rails of Ladder 2 so that you can insert a bolt through them to secure the two sections together.

The ladder is finished!

*Insert Coffee Break Here*

9. Now, onto the seat! You're going to need to gather (4) pieces of 1" x 1" x 2' 4", (2) pieces of 1" x 1" x 1' 7", (4) pieces of 1" x 1" x 1' 2", and (2) pieces of 1" x 1" x 2'.

Take the (4) 2' 4" pieces and designate one end of each pieces as the rail end - mark as such with an "X", "E", heart - whatever you choose - just so you know which piece is the RAIL END!

From the rail end, measure up 10" on each piece and leave your mark.

Take these (2) pieces and lay them mark side up, side by side on a flat surface - about 1' 2" apart - with the rail ends facing in the same direction.

10. Take a piece of 1" x 1" x 1' 2" and lay it between the (2) ends that are NOT marked. Tack this piece into place.

Take the second piece of 1' 2" and lay that piece at your 10" marks. Line it up so that the marks at at the center of your tubing. Tack this one into place.

11. Repeat these steps with the additional 1' 2" sections and 2' 4" sections. You should now have two pieces that should be identical. Assuming that everything is lining up - go ahead and finish welding these pieces. **We will be referring to these two pieces as S1 and S2 for the next steps**

12. Take S1 and S2 and lay them one on top of the other so that they match up. Gather the (2) 1" x 1" x 1' 7" pieces.

Lift the top "S" and place one of the 1' 7" tubes at the corner, opposite the rail end. Position the piece between S1 and S2. Tack it into place.

Take the other 1' 7" and place it between the other two corners of S1 and S2, opposite the rail end. Tack it into place.

Look it over, make sure its straight and then weld them into place.

**For all future references - this is the seat**

13. Gather Ladder 3 and the Seat. Place the rail end against the rails of Ladder 3 so that the top of the seat section is flush with the top of the Ladder 3 rails. Weld the (4) rail ends to the rail sections of Ladder 3.

14. Take the (2) 1" x 1" x 2' lengths - which will act as a brace for the seat - and place each one on the outside of each side of the seat and rail frames. Cut off the overhang and weld the braces in place.

15. On to the tree brace. Grab (1) of the flat pieces and the 1" x 1" x 2' square tubing that's left. Weld the square tubing to the center of the flat piece - forming a "T". **This will now be known as F1**

Take the second piece of flat and the 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" x 2' square tubing and follow the same process. **This will now be known as F2**

16. Take Ladder 2 and F2. Hold the flat plate against the bottom rung of Ladder 2 and center it up. Using the holes previously drilled into the flat as a guide - drill (2) 5/8" holes into the rails of Ladder 2. Place the 9/16" x 1 1/2" bolt through the holes and attach a washer and a nut.

17. Take F1 and insert the tubing into the tubing of F2. Make sure that both flat pieces match up and are horizontal to the base of the ladder so that it can be placed against the tree.

With F1 and F2 still assembled, choose either the top or the side of the square tubing a drill a 5/8" hole 1" from the non-welded end of the 1 1/2" tubing - it doesn't matter really if its top or side - either way - just personal preference - flip a coin!

Drill the holes so that it passes through both pieces.

18. Remove F1 - which should have a hole in it near the welded end. From the drilled hole, measure and mark every 2" back toward the open end and drill 5/8" holes through the tubing on these marks.

19. Slide F1 into F2 and ensure that the holes can fit a 9/16" bolt through both sections so that the sliding section can be adjusted to suit a 2' - 4' distance to the tree.

20. Attach one of the small ratchets into one hole on the tree trunk side of the brace.

*The ratchet goes around the tree at attaches back onto the hole at the other end of the flat plate, securing the brace to the tree.*

We're coming up to the final steps! Woo Hoo!

21. When finishing the seat, you will need to decide on either plywood or steel/aluminum mesh. You will need a piece 1' 6" x 1' 2". If you decide to go with mesh it can the welded directly to the seat frame. If you decide to go with plywood you will need to attach it by drilling (4) 5/16" holes in the frame and plywood and use 5/6" x 2 1/2" carriage bolts.

22. To make the footrest, you will need a piece of plywood or mesh 10" x 1' 2".

If you decide to go with mesh - cut a 1" square piece from each corner at the front to fit around the ladder rails.

If you decide to go with plywood, it can be attached using the same method as the seat. Drill 5/16" holes and attach using 5/16" x 2 1/2" carriage bolts.

23. To secure the straps - drill (2) 5/8" holes at each end of the rung that is attached to the brace Drill the holes in the top side of the rung and insert (2) eye bolts. Tighten them up.

Drill (2) more 5/8" holes on the rear seat frame vertical bars that will be up against the tree. Drill the holes on the outside of the (2) upright bars at about the halfway point. Insert the (2) remaining eye bolts and tighten them up as well.

24. Attach the long ratchet straps to the eye bolts, walk around the tree and connect to the other side of the stand at the brae eye bolts located on the rung.

The easiest way to put the ladder stand together is:

Attach Ladder 1 and Ladder 2 while they are laying on the ground.

The attach the sections to the tree using the brace of the ladder rung.

Make sure that the ratchet straps are attached to the back of the seat and are hanging down loosely.

Climb up a few steps on the ladder and attach Ladder 3 - with the seat.

While on the ground, hold one of the loose hanging ratchet straps, walk around the tree and attach is to the opposite side of the tree brace.

Repeat this process for the other strap.

Climb the ladder and attach the final strap around the tree and tighten!

Happy Hunting!!!!