Items Needed In Building a Fence
* post hold digger
* a level
* string (approximately 10 feet in length)
* several 4x4 treated posts
* several 2x4's
* several fence boards
* brackets (either galvanized or blocks of wood)
* fencing nails or screws (screws are recommended)
* 1/4 inch spacer
* circular saw (for cutting lengths of posts, 2x4's and fence boards)
* skill saw (for rounding off tops of fence boards)
* electric drill
How To Build a Fence
First Step - Digging the Holes
First, you will need to measure out your yard. Be sure that you know where your property line starts and ends. Then, determine how many posts and post holes you will need. Try to space these out evenly along your property line, approximately 6 to 8 feet apart, depending upon the height of your fence.
Now, you can start digging the holes. If you have a lot of yard to fence, you might want to either hire a company to come and dig the holes or rent the equipment. If you're doing it yourself, it might be best to use or rent a gas powered post hole auger. This will help you to get the job done quicker, with the least amount of energy spent. You can also purchase or rent a manual post hole digger.
Depending on the height of fencing you choose, purchase your 4x4, treated fence posts with approximately a four foot allowance. It's best to allow your posts to be a good three or four feet into the ground for a good sturdy fence.
Once the holes are dug, place your posts in the holes. Before moving onto the next step, take a look to be sure the posts will look evenly spaced. It's best to re-dig your holes now if they appear to look staggered or out of line. If you've established that they are well spaced and along an even line, you can move onto the next step.
* note: Another option would be to use post forms. These are metal forms that you hammer into the ground and then set your posts into them, securing them with bolts. They require no digging at all. However, this option gives less stability to the fence (in my opinion), especially if you have a substantial length of fencing. They are subject to movement of the ground, especially during winter freezing and then spring thawing.
Second Step - Securing Your Posts
You will have to secure your posts into the ground. A word of "caution". Do NOT cement your posts in. Some people believe that it's best to cement their posts in place, believing that this will give the fence stability, especially over a longer period of time. This is in fact a bad idea. The reason for that......... when posts are cemented in, they have a tendency to rot just above the cement line. When water seeps into the ground, either by heavy rains or watering your lawn or garden, the water will sit atop the cement. It has no where to go but to absorb into the posts at that point. In time. The wood will start to weaken and then rot. This makes it easier for your fence posts to fall over and the posts to snap. So you definitely haven't made your posts last longer with this method!
The best way to secure your posts into the ground is to first add some small stones, packing them in well. Using the level, make sure that your posts continue to stand straight during this process. Then alternate with stones and sand. Finally, fill up the last remaining part of the hole with sand and/or dirt and pack down well.
When it rains, the water will just continue to seep into the ground, filtering through the combination of sand and stone. Thus, your posts will remain intact for many years to come.
Third Step - Adding the Brackets
Now it is time to continue to the next step of adding brackets to the posts. You can do this in one of two ways. You can either purchase galvanized fencing brackets or make your own with cut down pieces of 2 x 4's.
To use the galvanized brackets, measure where you want your cross piece of 2 x 4 to be placed. You will need 2 brackets for each side of your post, one for the top, one for the bottom. Place them about 12 to 18 inches from the top and then again, an equally 12 to 18 inches up from the bottom. This will give your fencing a nice even look.
If you are making your own brackets, cut off several 6 inch blocks from a 2 x 4. Then position and secure these to the fence posts using screws, as described above with the brackets. You now have a secure ledge to place your 8 foot lengths of 2 x 4's on to.
Set an 8 foot length of 2 x 4 into the brackets, or atop the 2 x 4 blocks on both top and bottom and secure with fencing nails or screws.
Fourth Step - Adding The Fencing boards
You can now start screwing on your fence boards. For this you will need a level, a spacer and your length of string. Starting with your first board, place it up against the post, add "one" screw to hold it in place temporarily. This way you still have movement so that you can adjust the board, checking with the level, to be sure it is straight. You can then continue to put in the rest of the screws, 2 or 3 screws to secure it to the top piece of 2x4 and 2 or 3 screws to the bottom piece of 2x4. Do the same for the next post in line.
A second reason for temporarily affixing the first fence board, is to determine the height you want your fence to be. Attach your length of string to the top of your first board. Secure it with a nail (that you can later pull out). Now run your string along to the next post and fence board, and secure the other end of the string. This will give you a guide for the proper height of your fence, ensuring that your fence boards are all in line and not staggered.
For the next board, you will need to use a 1/4 inch spacer. You can use a piece of trim board that is approximately 1/4 inch thick. Place this between each fence board that you add. This will ensure that each and every board of your fence will have an equal space between each.
* hint: do not place your fence boards too far apart as the boards do tend to shrink over time. This might allow too much space between your boards, reducing the amount of privacy you have in your yard.
As you continue to screw on your fence boards, be sure to check with the level every 3 or 4 boards to be sure that your fence remains level, as not all boards are cut perfectly straight from the factory.
Continue screwing on the fence boards, up and to the last post.
To add a bit of character to your fence, you might want to round off the top of either all or every second fence board. This helps to eliminate the possibility of a crooked looking fence. It's best to do this before adding your boards to the fence.
Last Step - Paint or Stain
You can now paint or stain your newly built fence.
Published by PennyB
I reside in Canada, and enjoy spending time with my children and grandchildren. I'm fairly new to online freelance writing, but find I'm enjoying the challenge of exercising my creative side. When not writin... View profile
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4 Comments
Post a CommentGood explanation, I used chain link, too :) Sheri
I put up a chain link fence for my house, and it's amazing how much even that kind of fencing (read: the cheap stuff) costs. You can definitely save money if you can install your fence yourself.
correction: In items needed, it should read post "hole" digger. I caught the error too late and am not able to revise it yet.
Sounds like a lot of work ... but well worth the effort :)