How to Build a Rabbit Hutch

Building a 2 Level Rabbit Hutch

Kris B
Because rabbits are so easy to raise, and use for both food and as a source of valuable products (manure and pelts), many are looking for ways to raise them in smaller areas. One of the ways to maximize space is to build a double deck hutch. I use a design that is 2 levels tall, and holds a total of 6 rabbit cages. My cages are 30 inches wide, 24 inches deep and 24 inches tall. This is plenty of room for the meat rabbits that I raise.

Supplies you will need:
*(8) 2"X4"X8' studs
*(6) 2"X3"X100" boards
*(2) sheets 8' corrugated plastic roofing
*(1) box 2 ½" or 3" nails (or screws, if you prefer to work with screws)
*(1) box roofing nails
*(1) hammer *(6) 30" X 24" X 24" cages

First, cut four of the 2"X3" boards to 91 ½". Lay these aside. Now cut from the remaining 2"X3" boards four sections 27 ½" long. You will fit these together with the longer 2"X3" boards to form a large rectangle. Fasten with nails (or screws) through the flat side of the shorter boards into the end of the longer boards. When completed properly, you should have a rectangle with an outside measurement of 94 ½"X271 ½" long. This allows for an inside measurement of 91 ½"X24 ½". This provides a little extra space outside of your cages. This will be beneficial when it comes time to hang your cages. Put together the second set of boards to make a second large rectangle of the same size.

Next, you will need to cut the 2"X4" studs to form legs. Cut 6 of these down to 76". Attach four of these with nails or screws to the first large rectangle, one on each corner. Make sure you set them square, with the rectangle at the very top of the leg. An easy way to do this is to lay the rectangle down on a hard, flat surface and then hold the leg up to the front side of the corner, lining the top up with the top edge of the rectangle. It is best to add all four of these to the corners on the longer sides of the rectangles. From one outside edge, measure in 31 ½", and mark the long rectangle. Fit the center of one of the 2"X4" legs to the mark, and fasten with nails or screws. Measure 31 ½" from the other outside edge, and mark. Fasten the 4th 2"X4" leg on the center of the line you marked. This will be the front of your hutch. Turn the whole hutch over, so that it is right side up. Measure 32" down from the top, and mark all of the legs. Take the second large rectangle, and fasten it into the legs, with the top of the rectangular frame at the mark on each leg. You now have most of the frame together. Measure the distance from the top of the second rectangle to the ground. Use this measurement to cut one of the remaining 2"X4" boards to make a seventh leg. Affix this to the middle of the back of the hutch. Finally, cut the last 2"X4" board to 94 ½" long. Affix this, with nails or screws, on top of the front of the second rectangle (the bottom one) with 4" side against the legs. This will serve as the "elevator" for your roofing material.

You now need to hang the bottom level of cages. Simply hold the cages in the bottom rectangle, and drive a nail into the frame just below the first bar of the cage. Drive the nail half way in, and then bend it up to hold the cage in place. Do this on each corner, and for larger rabbits add one to the middle of the cages as well. Once all three cages are secured, you are ready to add the roofing material between levels.

The roofing serves to keep the top level of rabbits from urinating and defecating on the lower level. Start by cutting four 36" sections of roofing. This will leave the end pieces of the two pieces of roofing. Carefully mark the roofing where it will need to fit around the 2"X4" legs. Cut out the pieces with a pair of tin snips. Attach the roofing with roofing nails to the lower frame. The front should rest on the 2"X4" that you put in on the front legs, and the back will rest on the 2"X3" frame. You should overlap each piece by at least 2 ridges on the plastic, to prevent liquids from dripping through. The last section will be the two short pieces, which will have to be pieced together to cover the whole distance, front to back. Make sure to overlap the front piece over the back piece, so that liquid cannot run between them. It is also a good idea to make sure that the roofing has the down edge exposed (there is a "down" edge and an "up" edge).

Finally, you can attach the upper level of cages. Simply hold them in place, and hang them in the same manner as the lower level. When in place, you should have several inches between the top layer of cages and the roofing material. This allows plenty of room to use a garden hoe, or similar implement to push the fecal matter off of the roofing. You can collect it easily in this way with muck buckets.

This is a relatively easy hutch system to build, and can maximize your space. It is also very inexpensive to build. With a little time, you can build several of these, and fill up your garage or barn. It is also very easy to alter, if you want cages of different sizes in your hutches.

Published by Kris B

Kris has been working as a webmaster for several websites, including: www.nanettes.com, www.kcjmarketing.com, and www.skylarstoys.com  View profile

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